Motor Running Hot(not coolant)
Motor Running Hot (Lean)(not coolant)
So I have had many issues with getting the 383 running right. Now its down to two things. I was getting a hesitation and stumbling but now I found two melted plug boots so I am going to assume thats it for right now. Heres the main problem though.
The headers and motor are hot and I mean really hot..Just from 5 minutes of idling the amount of heat in the engine bay is way worse than on my old motor setup. The headers have been hot enough to melt my poly motor mount and plastic tubing that is 3 inches away. When I pulled my plugs they looked lean. Not like SUPER lean but they were greyish color (more on the white side obviously) and this is from only having 100 miles on the motor.. Heres the worst thing of all. There is absolutely no reason that the motor should be running lean.
Fuel pressure was perfect with no drop offs.
Brand new 30lb injectors
No vaccuum leaks
02s functioning properly, Map properly,MAF Properly
Tuning is actually set a lil rich. My injector flow constant is at 30.50 when it should be higher.
If anything my car should be running rich when I had those misfires on two cylinders..I also have a tiny exhaust leak on the pass side where header bolts to head. But guess what that should make it run rich too..
Im not sure if its only lean at idle or if its lean while im driving too. If there is anyone on here that can read my log I can send it to you.
My integrators were between 122-127 but usually were about 124..So does that mean it was adding fuel or taking it away? Im pretty sure it means it was taking fuel out.So I dont get why it would do that if I was indeed lean. Also my blms hit 118 on left bank and 114 on right then a few moments later I turned the car off but it was gradually going down and down trying to pull more and more fuel
If anyone is in chicago area and can tune or can help itd be even more appreciated. Help get this car running right so I can go run some 10s and spray the crap out of it
The headers and motor are hot and I mean really hot..Just from 5 minutes of idling the amount of heat in the engine bay is way worse than on my old motor setup. The headers have been hot enough to melt my poly motor mount and plastic tubing that is 3 inches away. When I pulled my plugs they looked lean. Not like SUPER lean but they were greyish color (more on the white side obviously) and this is from only having 100 miles on the motor.. Heres the worst thing of all. There is absolutely no reason that the motor should be running lean.
Fuel pressure was perfect with no drop offs.
Brand new 30lb injectors
No vaccuum leaks
02s functioning properly, Map properly,MAF Properly
Tuning is actually set a lil rich. My injector flow constant is at 30.50 when it should be higher.
If anything my car should be running rich when I had those misfires on two cylinders..I also have a tiny exhaust leak on the pass side where header bolts to head. But guess what that should make it run rich too..
Im not sure if its only lean at idle or if its lean while im driving too. If there is anyone on here that can read my log I can send it to you.
My integrators were between 122-127 but usually were about 124..So does that mean it was adding fuel or taking it away? Im pretty sure it means it was taking fuel out.So I dont get why it would do that if I was indeed lean. Also my blms hit 118 on left bank and 114 on right then a few moments later I turned the car off but it was gradually going down and down trying to pull more and more fuel
If anyone is in chicago area and can tune or can help itd be even more appreciated. Help get this car running right so I can go run some 10s and spray the crap out of it
Last edited by unTAmedLS1; Jul 1, 2005 at 06:55 AM.
Re: Motor Running Hot(not coolant)
Does the exhaust smell rich at idle? My guess is there is excessive combustion in the headers creating the heat.
Try this...
Turn the car to accessories ON position for 10 minutes. This will heat up the O2 sensors so they can give a somewhat accurate reading. Then fire it up and read the O2s at idle in open loop. If they are in the 900s then its rich.. 100s its lean. While there is a lot of room for error in this method.. its about all you can do without a wideband O2 hooked up. Email me the log if you want.. ill take a look at it. bradperkins@hotmail
Try this...
Turn the car to accessories ON position for 10 minutes. This will heat up the O2 sensors so they can give a somewhat accurate reading. Then fire it up and read the O2s at idle in open loop. If they are in the 900s then its rich.. 100s its lean. While there is a lot of room for error in this method.. its about all you can do without a wideband O2 hooked up. Email me the log if you want.. ill take a look at it. bradperkins@hotmail
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