Hindsight being 20/20 i wish i would have gone with the 110 LSA i think. There isn't enough overlap on this to be choppy, and the driveability i darn near stock. The tinyest amount of surge if you try to let it idle in gear. As long as your on the throttle a tiny bit your fine though from 800-6300 rpms. Some people claimed the smaller LSA where a bitch to tune and thats why i hesitated and didn't follow your suggestion in full. Bryan had no problems tuning it, he nailed it before we even got on the dyno. I could live with a tny bit more surge if thats what a 110 would ahve meant. I drive in 6th alot around 1500 rpms, so i definitly didn't want to lose my lowend, just maintain it, another reason for going 111 over the peakier 110.

Don't get me wrong, i'm extremely happy. Someone else out there try it on a 110 though please

Anyone else think maybe there is a reason why comp recommends the 218/224 for stock headed cars with full exhaust and the 224/230, 230/236 for those with head work ? Where are all the big cam guys who always say "yeah, stuff a CC306 in there"

 

http://bellsouthpwp.net/L/T/LT1ultra...ngine/Dyno.jpg

Might have put out 3 max rwhp then CC306 but look at my graph, the power bearly falls off after the peak at 5900. My car hasnt been tuned yet on the dyno, and the only tunning i have done is mess around with the PE table and added +2 timming up top. Also running a stock waterpump, stock tb, stock heads etc.

Anyways, the numbers look VERY GOOD. Now take it to the track





Marcin

 

I was looking at your graph last night actually I know yours makes the same HP, but i don't have to spin my bottem end quite as high. I still made 346/346 before tuning on the dyno. There was still no knock, but bryan felt it definitly wasn't worth it trying to push a couple more HP with the extra spark in case the gas I get isn't always quite that good.

How does yours cruise below 2k rpm?

Gas consumption?

How did it run before tuning? (i understand yorus isn't dynotuned, but you did road tune it)

The way i see it your longtubes cancel with my TB, so my only additional mod over you is the electric WP.

I hate to even bring it up since it's just hearsay and it's hard to believe, but the dyno we were on is supposedly a couple HP low too I don't think i have to go there though with 351rw. Thats what the mustang guys said the reputation was there before we pulled it, but thats probably just cause they're rustang drivers, ahhaa. They are probably telling everyone it reads high now........

 

I can get around 220 to the tank around the city just messin around. It drives close to stock. The only cam surge you would notice while driving would be if u jamed it in to 6th at 40mph.
(1500 rpm). Other then that, its close to stock. It ran ok with a stock tune as well I just messed around with the timming bellow 4000 and then added some timming at high rpms. I am using a PE table from PCM4Less file for a 230/236 cam. Car is running pig rich up top anyways. Ill be going back to the dyno when it gets cold. It was 90 and close to 90% humidity when i dynoed. Hopefully i can get 360+ rwhp. Hopefuly the 12 bolt wont hurt me too much.

Marcin

 

I think that makes a statement for both the 306 and xe 218.

With such marginal power differances, is the 306 CC REALLY justified?

 

I've driven other cars with larger cams and they didn't like light-no throttle anywhere below 1600 rpms, bucking and stuff if you tried to let them coast/idle in gear. 6th at 40 isn't a big deal at all though since i know you know how to drive stick and would drop it down into 2nd if you really wanted to go

Sounds like your gas milage isn't really killing you, but that is more to do with HOW you drive than the minor differences in efficiency of the cam.

It was 90 when i dyno'd as well the humidity actually makes a difference on a lower order of magnitude compared to the temperature so you can almost ignore humidity. The SAE corrections are pretty good for temperature, so the only was the 90 deg heat could have hurt you is if your car was for example running at 190 isntead of your normal 180.

I will admit yours probably sounds meaner at idle though

btw, track trip this friday if the weather holds. Maple grove, or maybe etown.

-brent

 

306 will shine with heads.

 

yeah....There is a lmit to stock heads. I think the limit is around 350-360 RWHP. Once the heads are uncaped the CC306 should make more power. My theory is that the stock heads can not provide enough flow to support over 360 rwhp NA. I think the CC306 will make more power with ported heads just by looking at his and my graph. You can see on my graph how the peak power appears at 5900 and then it starts to slowely fall (heads cant keep up with the cam) even thou heads cant keep up the CC306 pushes em to the max flow in those rpms therefore the power dropes only a little. On his graph the drop is more dramatic which to me means that the cam is running out of power around 6k, while the CC306 keeps on juggin all the way to 6800 (rev limiter)

AM i crazy or does that make some sense?

Marcin

 

Great numbers Brent, I bet you can't wait to run it at the Grove. I was planning on going this Friday but my car is running like comlete **** right now. I'm pretty sure it's from a bad fuel presure regulator but I'm not positive, I just ordered a new one this week. I won't have time to work on it until this weekend though, so no racing this Friday for me

 

hehe, i give it hell every time i drive it But yeah, it all depends where you drive etc.


Marcin

 

No, your not crazy. Mine does drop off harder, but who cares. I will shift at 6200 and come into the next gear at 4700 with 320 hp. You will shift at 6600 and come back to 5k and also have ~320 hp. Hp is a function of tq and rpm, so the extra rpms are only benefitting you since your geared down more. The diffrence is that your operating way above the stock redline and what the stock bottom end was balanced for.

You run 4.33s with the 12 bolt? 4.10s with the 10 bolt? Either way we are ending up with the same result. Your getting into your pwrband and higher rpms by using the gears. I think we are going to have VERY similar traps in similar weather conditions because we are operating in each gear with the same avg hp, i'm just doing it at an easier lower rpm. Do you have any weight reduction?

-brent

 

Yes it will, heads would definitly benefit me as well Can you say ported LT4s from bret bauer? he he. When i do get that done hopefully next summer with a new clutch I may not even change the cam since it'll still be on the stock bottem and and i'll want to keep the rpms down still, depends how much power bret thinks can be found in a cam swap at that time. A cam is a minor cost, i don't understand putting in a cam now with the intent of adding heads later, just add the cam later.

Oh yeah, did i mention that i'm afraid to spin past 6200 on the stock bottem and want my valvetrain to live with the lower rpms and smaller lift

 

Darn Gregg, it woulda been cool if you could make it. Yes i'm very excited to run it, but then i have to drive back to state college afterwords so that won't be much fun

I hope you get your fuel reg fixed or figure out whats wrong with yoru car!

-brent

 

I used to have a CC306 in my car w/ ported heads. Over the winter, I pulled that out and slapped in a 230/236 XE "HE" grind cam. It's on a 110lsa... This XE cam has a TON more low end grunt to it, and my power drops off about 200rpm sooner than it did w/ the CC306.

I've dyno'd with both cams, but not at the same shop so as to get a good dynograph vs. dynograph comparison. I have a dynojet at my job now and I've been hard pressed to go and actually pay for just one pull back at the old place I used to dyno . However, once it cools off I'll probably go and do that. I know my 1/8 mile times are about a tenth faster than they were w/ the 306.

 

No i have 4.11s in the 12 bolt. I dont totally agree with your theory that we are in the same powerband. I think my car moves so well becuase of the high redline and power staying up there all the way to the rev limiter. I asked this question before if i would benefit of shifting lower and many people said i should shift as high as i can due to my power just hovering around peak all the way to redline.

I am going to be very interested in what you run, and no i dont have any weight reduction beside the tire and jack being gone. Race weight is around 3615lbs.

Marcin