LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

Modifying a WS6 hood

Old May 2, 2004 | 06:20 PM
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ArrestMeRed's Avatar
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Question Modifying a WS6 hood

I have a 1993-1997 SLP WS6 hood and I noticed that the air inlet is pretty darn small. Have you heard of anyone trimming away some of the fiberglass on the hood to make the inlet any bigger, or did they engineer this for volicity?

Old May 2, 2004 | 06:31 PM
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Re: Modifying a WS6 hood

Originally posted by ArrestMeRed
I have a 1993-1997 SLP WS6 hood and I noticed that the air inlet is pretty darn small. Have you heard of anyone trimming away some of the fiberglass on the hood to make the inlet any bigger, or did they engineer this for volicity?

For velocity? Do you mean aerodynamics? Honestly, I wouldn't even attempt it. Figure for the amount of fiberglass you can safely remove, the amount of air you'll be adding won't make too much of a difference. I'd just do a CAI setup and call it a day.
Old May 3, 2004 | 12:50 PM
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i removed the baffels in mine to give the air a straight shoot. I don't know if that helped alot but you never know
Old May 3, 2004 | 03:22 PM
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I believe SLP and others make a stainless ram-air style box that can be used with LS1's. I've HEARD that guys pick up about 2 tenth's in the 1/4 mile when using it. Of course that is just rumor. Looking at a standard SS or WS6 style ram air hood, it's hard to believe that you could pick up anything over a standard hood.
Old May 3, 2004 | 03:39 PM
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There's plenty of people out there whom have cut the baffles out of the WS6 hood. How much it actually helps is debatable, but when you can look through the hood straight into the TB it's always a good thing. One not of caution, if you do plan to go this route, try to refrain from driving in a heavy downpour.
Old May 3, 2004 | 03:54 PM
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I saw a guy with a WS6 who removed the grills, ground out the "nostrils" a little, removed the baffles, then smoothed the "walls" of the opening so there was a smooth path to the airbox. Looked really good. Obviously some paintwork required when it was all done.

When I first got my SLP hood, I removed about 1/2" off the bottom of the front baffle, and 1" off the top of the rear baffle, and never noticed a problem with water getting to the filter. Later, when it became a "track only" car, I cut the baffles out completely. I would be hesitant to do that with a street driven car, because I have to put a foam plug in the hood when I tow the car, or the water ends up on the air filter.

Once you've got the hood opened up, take the grid off the airbox, and get the Fernco coupling for the MAF/TB connection. I don't think you could get a much more direct path than that:

Hood baffles

Air box

Fernco
Old May 3, 2004 | 03:59 PM
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were did you get the Fernco and the Air box? Those look a lot better than mine
Old May 3, 2004 | 04:05 PM
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Fernco 3" X 3" water pipe coupler. Available at your friendly neighborhood Lowes or Home Depot.
Old May 3, 2004 | 04:08 PM
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So just a couple bucks then. Sounds good to me.
Old May 3, 2004 | 04:08 PM
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The air box started its life as an SLP piece.... identical to the stock WS6 box, but without the "Ram Air" and "Pontiac" logos, and cheap weatherstripping instead of the molded seal/gasket. Then "Mr. Dremel" got hold of it....
Old May 3, 2004 | 04:11 PM
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Another cheap fix.
Old May 3, 2004 | 04:13 PM
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Originally posted by 94YellowTAGT
So just a couple bucks then. Sounds good to me.
Yeah, something like $3.95 or so. DO NOT pay some schmuck $20 for one on Ebay!!!
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