Modifying a WS6 hood
I have a 1993-1997 SLP WS6 hood and I noticed that the air inlet is pretty darn small. Have you heard of anyone trimming away some of the fiberglass on the hood to make the inlet any bigger, or did they engineer this for volicity?
Re: Modifying a WS6 hood
Originally posted by ArrestMeRed
I have a 1993-1997 SLP WS6 hood and I noticed that the air inlet is pretty darn small. Have you heard of anyone trimming away some of the fiberglass on the hood to make the inlet any bigger, or did they engineer this for volicity?
I have a 1993-1997 SLP WS6 hood and I noticed that the air inlet is pretty darn small. Have you heard of anyone trimming away some of the fiberglass on the hood to make the inlet any bigger, or did they engineer this for volicity?
I believe SLP and others make a stainless ram-air style box that can be used with LS1's. I've HEARD that guys pick up about 2 tenth's in the 1/4 mile when using it. Of course that is just rumor. Looking at a standard SS or WS6 style ram air hood, it's hard to believe that you could pick up anything over a standard hood.
There's plenty of people out there whom have cut the baffles out of the WS6 hood. How much it actually helps is debatable, but when you can look through the hood straight into the TB it's always a good thing. One not of caution, if you do plan to go this route, try to refrain from driving in a heavy downpour.
I saw a guy with a WS6 who removed the grills, ground out the "nostrils" a little, removed the baffles, then smoothed the "walls" of the opening so there was a smooth path to the airbox. Looked really good. Obviously some paintwork required when it was all done.
When I first got my SLP hood, I removed about 1/2" off the bottom of the front baffle, and 1" off the top of the rear baffle, and never noticed a problem with water getting to the filter. Later, when it became a "track only" car, I cut the baffles out completely. I would be hesitant to do that with a street driven car, because I have to put a foam plug in the hood when I tow the car, or the water ends up on the air filter.
Once you've got the hood opened up, take the grid off the airbox, and get the Fernco coupling for the MAF/TB connection. I don't think you could get a much more direct path than that:
Hood baffles
Air box
Fernco
When I first got my SLP hood, I removed about 1/2" off the bottom of the front baffle, and 1" off the top of the rear baffle, and never noticed a problem with water getting to the filter. Later, when it became a "track only" car, I cut the baffles out completely. I would be hesitant to do that with a street driven car, because I have to put a foam plug in the hood when I tow the car, or the water ends up on the air filter.
Once you've got the hood opened up, take the grid off the airbox, and get the Fernco coupling for the MAF/TB connection. I don't think you could get a much more direct path than that:
Hood baffles
Air box
Fernco
The air box started its life as an SLP piece.... identical to the stock WS6 box, but without the "Ram Air" and "Pontiac" logos, and cheap weatherstripping instead of the molded seal/gasket. Then "Mr. Dremel" got hold of it....
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