Mobil 1 0w-40

Is this 0w-40 new? And should I use it?

 

could be a bit too thin...

 

i believe 0w40 is specifically blended for euro cars... read the bottle.. but me personally i would not recommend it... just as i told all my customers at autozone.. i dont think its the greatest thing to use

 

I used it in my Camaro and really liked it. I had the weird oil pressure problem that some people have- oil pressure dropping off sharply at WOT in the upper RPMs. That was with 10w30 Mobil 1 oil, and when I switched to Mobil 1 0w40 the oil pressure issue virtually went away. It's a fine oil and would work well in your car.

My Camaro has had nothing but Mobil 1 in it of varying weight since I bought it with 79k miles on it. Now it has almost 140k hard miles, about 60k with all bolt ons, and about 10k with heads/cam and the internals look great. You can still see crosshatch on the cylinder walls, and the cam bearings looked to be in good condition when I swapped cams. For the record I liked the 0w40 better than the other Mobil 1 oils that I used.

 

i used Mobil 1 with SuperSyn 0W20 my last oil change and haven't had any complaints. except for the $45 oil change that is.

 

0w20 is too thin for your car. Why did you use it?

 

0w-40 M1 is a much better choice than 5w-30 or 10w-30 M1 and infinetely better than 0w-20 which is as far as I know only speced in some Fords and Hondas of fairly recent years. Get that out of there NOW. 0w-40 is thicker than the 5w-30 M1 everyone MISTAKENLY believes is a good oil for the LT1.

Frankly there is a lot of very poor oil info on this board you would all be better off going here http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi for your oil information.

 

Use it and love it. Great pressure at all RPMs and in all weather so far. The 0w40 is on the thick end of the 30wt scale, and I've found it to work quite well in my car.

 

Rule of thumb....

Thin as possible for the track --> Less friction on all the parts = more horsepower.

For durability then go thicker so that the parts are spaced apart from each other. (more oil pressure also).

Just think of it this way... 0w-10 most HP but wears engine down faster... 20w-50 thick so parts don't move as well (not noticable either guys) but engine will last longest.

Its late here... i think that made sense.

 

You contradict yourself. If thinner oil made for less internal friction, then thicker would not be the choice for long term durability. I think thin oils help provide more HP because it's easier to pump, not because there is less friction in the engine. Our SBCs want a thicker oil and I think 0W-40 is a good choice. Here is an interesting viscosity table vs temperature that may help some people understand what is going on with the multi-viscosity grades:


[CODE]TEMP * M1 0W-40 * GC 0W-30 * M1 0W-30 * M1 5W-30 * M1 10W-30 * M1 0W-20 * RL 5W-20
-20 * 2661.5 * 2609.0 * 1994.8 * 2225.1 * 3424.8 * 1712.7 * 2995.8
-10 * 1197.8 * 1127.1 * 872.4 * 944.7 * 1332.9 * 730.8 * 1165.3
0 * 599.3 * 546.6 * 428.3 * 452.9 * 595.7 * 352.8 * 521.4
10 * 327.6 * 291.8 * 231.3 * 240.1 * 298.3 * 188.5 * 261.8
20 * 192.9 * 168.8 * 135.3 * 138.3 * 164.1 * 109.5 * 144.5
30 * 121.0 * 104.4 * 84.6 * 85.5 * 97.6 * 68.3 * 86.3
40 * 80.0 * 68.4 * 56.0 * 56.0 * 62.0 * 45.1 * 55.0
50 * 55.4 * 47.0 * 38.8 * 38.5 * 41.6 * 31.3 * 37.0
60 * 39.8 * 33.7 * 28.1 * 27.7 * 29.2 * 22.6 * 26.1
70 * 29.7 * 25.0 * 21.0 * 20.6 * 21.4 * 17.0 * 19.2
80 * 22.7 * 19.1 * 16.2 * 15.8 * 16.1 * 13.1 * 14.5
90 * 17.8 * 15.0 * 12.8 * 12.4 * 12.5 * 10.4 * 11.3
100 * 14.3 * 12.0 * 10.3 * 10.0 * 10.0 * 8.4 * 9.1
110 * 11.7 * 9.8 * 8.5 * 8.2 * 8.1 * 6.9 * 7.4
120 * 9.8 * 8.2 * 7.1 * 6.9 * 6.7 * 5.8 * 6.1
130 * 8.2 * 6.9 * 6.0 * 5.8 * 5.7 * 5.0 * 5.2
140 * 7.0 * 5.9 * 5.2 * 5.0 * 4.9 * 4.3 * 4.4
150 * 6.1 * 5.1 * 4.5 * 4.3 * 4.2 * 3.7 * 3.9
[/CODE]

0W-20 is by far the thinnest oil in this list, which is ok for cold starts. It WOULD provide superior lubrication in arctic conditions. That said, at higher temps, it's still thinner than the already-too-thin M1 30 weights, which is bad news for the SBC. GC 0W-30 (so-called German Castrol) is a thick 30 weight with decent low temp performance, however M1 0W-40 does as well in cold temps but is thicker at higher temps. M1 Truck & SUV (which is a 5W-40) would be an excellent choice for those who have cars that don't experience extremely cold starts (maybe above like 0*F).

 

Great info guys.....Im likin' what i see!!

Brandon

 

Firehawk Dude according to your logic we should all run gear lube the hell with that thin 20w-50 crap skip right to 85w-140. What you want is the right weight oil for this motor kevm14 covered it well. The Ford and Honda motors the 20 wt. oils are speced in are doing well with them.

 

Run 0-20W in my circle track engines and change it every track night. Was using a streight 30W but this seems to do the job. The engine should be clearanced to run thin oil. Back in the '60's we used streight 50W and had to warm the engine at idle about 20 laps before gassing it or plug in the heaters on the engine. It would peg a 120PSI guage if you didn't warm it up and that ain't good for the brgs,it will cut a groove in them inline with the crank oil hole and all the way around.Talk about lost oil pressure.

 

Gear lube? I'm insaulted. No reason to be an ignorant *** about it. What I was trying to say may not of came out like i wanted it to, but it wasn't 100% wrong.

SAE 10 (0W10) - For drag racing and circle track qualifying where the lowest internal friction is desired.

SAE 20 (5W20) - For drag racing, circle track qualifying and race engines designed for low-viscosity oils.

SAE 30 (10W30) - Suitable in well-balanced racing engines for sustained high-speed use where low internal friction is desired.

SAE 40 (15W40) - For use where temperatures may be high and when a wide range in RPMs and speeds will be encountered.

SAE 50 (15W50) - For use where extremely high temperatures may be encountered and when engine durablility is the primary concern.


Thanks for the chart kevm14. Above is what i see on countless oil webpages. You guys are going to have to make up your own mind when it comes to oils. I have been involved with threads like this so many times. And it always the same. Someone will post a chart and belive what he says others will not. And there is always some jerk off like 96capricemgr.

But in any sense what i posted is what i stick to. Sometimes I change oil to a diffearnt weight depending on how hot our summers get or what i'm doing that weekend (i.e going to the track). It all is personal preferance i guess and what you feel your motor needs.