I need help with my car.

I have a miss I notice at all RPM's and occasionally at WOT.

I also have detonation (ticking sound) from the engine at mid RPM's approx. 2000 - 3000rpm. Detonation only occurs when the car is hot but the miss I think is always there (GMMG makes it hard to determine.)

Does anyone have a clue to what the problem is?

I have recently changed the plugs and wires. I had the same thing happen when I had a wire off a plug. I replaced the plugs and the car ran fine for a week. Then during a longer trip the car suddenly would not shift correctly, and would bog shifting at low RPM's. Since the transmission shifts fine but I still have the miss and detonation. All plugs are gapped at .050 Ac Delco with MSD super conductors.

Thought it might be coil or coil module(getting hot as the heads warm up)

Fuel, clogged injectors or water in tank? (Tried some STP octane booster and some Geet water out for gas. Helped overall but still had symptoms.)

GMMG went on right before storage, perhaps sound or vibration is causing false knock and retarding timing? ( A stretch)

Car has sit out for winters since new and started doing all of this after storage.

Former owner was older man, maybe carbon build up from low RPM driving is finally causing problems?

Thanks in advance for your help.

-Dustin-

 

Ignition- opti, coil,icm... or Fuel- pump, regulator would be my best guesses.

If it's detonating it means bad timing or a lean condition. Sounds like you've got your work cut out for ya.

 

If you think you "hear" detonation, get a scanner on it right away. The knock retard system should be sufficient to prevent any audible knock.,.. if you can actually hear it, either the knock retard system isn't working, or there is so much knock the knock system can't retard it enough... a simple scan would tell you which it is.

Have you had a scanner on it?

 

I thought it ran rich with the amount of "dark smoke" my parents saw as I drove off this weekend? Also alot of black residue in the exhaust tips and on bumper...signs of running too rich?

Would it be any sensors or myabe an 02 gone bad from driving with a wire off? Like I said this showed up from no where while I was driving on a long trip a week after I put the wire on and fixed the original problem.

Thanks Green

-Dustin-

 

No scanner, do I have to go to a dealership for that?

How can I check it? I have a few buddies with LT1's who might have something..

-Dustin-

 

I changed my plugs before it came out of storage just for a tune up and since the old owner had only changed 7 when he did them. I did the NGK TR55 GP's. Then this weekend I took them out and put AC Delco's in, since one of the NGK's were cracked. I figured that was the problem but it still acts this way. There were two cracks from the tip of the plug to the hex head. Both about the same distance from the other. Maybe I cracked anther one?

-Dustin-

 

You need to drive around with a scanner on the car, to observe the knock retard, and all the other stuff that can go wrong...l O2 sensors, long term fuel corrections, etc. Best thing to do on an OBD-I car is to use FreeScan or TTS DataMaster software, on a laptop. Downloads of both those are free (TTS limited to 20 uses), so all you need is the correct interface cable from AKM Electronics. That allows to to log the engine's sensors and key operating parameters for an extended period of driving, under a wide variety of conditions.

What torque specs are you using for the spark plugs? Sounds like you might be overtightening them if you are cracking insulators.

 

Hand torque, but I believe the crack was caused by me trying to get the socket off. (Pulling up/down since I couldnt pull it straight off the end.

I'll have to try the scanning stuff somehow. Thanks for the info, cause this knock is spooking me, I dont want to blow my engine. I try to rev right past it cause at WOT the car runs strong.

I'll try to get a laptop on there today or tomorrow and get this figured out thanks alot.

Thanks Injuneer.

-Dustin-

 

Anyone know where I can get the connectors for the ends of a cable for a laptop connection? As in the OBDI connector. Thanks

-Dustin-

 

defintitely get it scanned, I'd consider 02's if you get a P1133 or PO132.

 

He won't get those codes.... it a 94 OBD-I

You need a cable specifically made for interfacing the ALDL to your PC.... go to AKM Electronics

I notice you felt this mighjt be due to:
I think I qualify as an "older man".... but I don't think I have any problems with "carbon build up"..... well at least my engine doesn't

 

LOL, well if that is the case I am sure you are young at heart, which is all that counts This older man was mid 50's and the Camaro was his "baby." He was extremely delecate with it and it got pampered. 28k on the clock this summer when I bought it. But even he said he had it to 110mph once I believe he said he encountered a Mustang with a younger fellow driving and did not want to be shown up just cause he was older. He said he couldnt let the Camaro bear the shame.

No codes, we did the old paper clip in the port under the dash trick. Fans turned on, but no codes.

-Dustin-

 

DOH you're right, in my haste I overlooked...

 

A friend has a OBD II cable for his laptop, how can a change it to a OBD I cable? He is an electronic tech, so feel free to get technical.

-Dustin-

 

Until I get it scanned would a LT4 KM be a good purchase?

-Dustin-