ok... Car is complete.. but they didnt finish up until 5pm today and need to make a few test drives to make sure all is well..... i did have them put on a K&N oil filter and am using Quaker State High HorsePower Synthetic oil... they already put it in and have the filter on... thank you for that last post.. very informative.. Now.. with what i had put on and in as far as oil and filter goes... will i be ok with doing the 20 min oil change??? and when i replace oil and filter am i ok with what i picked or should i use something different?

 

Last I heard there wan't a 'break-in' for roller cams.

You didnt change rings.

I'd prolly let it idle for a minute, hold it at about 2k for 30 seconds and cruise around for a day or 2. Change oil and filter (/c their cheaper than motors) and give it hell. The lifters 'might' need to settle in their respective bores for a minute but other than that.....

Most of what has been said already relates to flat tappet cams and new piston rings.

 

Since your bores and rings are untouched, you should be able to run it as said above. The careful note in the thread was to cover an engine break-in which is only typically done if the bottom end has been machined, honed, ect.

Mobil 1 filters are available at Kragen, Autozone, or you can check out the website of a store in your area. Napa only sells Napa Silver & Gold and Wix.

Here is a sample study you may find interesting...
http://www.ntpog.org/reviews/filters/filters.shtml

and...
http://www.scuderiaciriani.com/rx7/oil_filter_study/

I've heard of some issues about breaking-in a motor on synthetic... but since you're only doing the top end, it shouldn't be an issue. Also, I'd be concerned with a K&N on break-in but again, with only work being done to the top end, it shouldn't be an issue.

 

Graham - Great car! What kind of wax are you using? That black paint looks like a mirror!

 

Good 'ole Mothers. Nothing special.

The mirroring look comes from flat, almost scratch free paint. A good buff/mirror glaze does good for the scratches. The rest is left up to paint shop preperation. Mine actually needs some block-sand attention but its not gonna get it, lol!

Thanks!

 

You didn't have anything done to the bottom end I'd say make sure you cover a wide vareity of RPMs let those springs set up good for a hundred miles or so and you should be ok.

 

I completely agree with Graham. The bottom end wasn't touched and the engine has a roller cam, not flat tappet. A regular new engine break-in procedure is not required. Just do the simple procedure that Graham mentions above...and then rock and roll.

 

Crap! I typed up a big explanation to follow up on this regarding only the top end not requiring a break-in. Only the bottom end. After checking this thread again, I noticed it isn't here... I'm wondering if I got twisted and posted it in another thread! LOL. Some guy is going... What The F! LOL.

Yes, with only top-end work, no real break-in is necessary with a roller cam.