Does it work???

Will i be able to install them?

I was trying to use the stock windage tray but the main studs where simply too short as noted on previous posts...

I am windering if it can be done.

The other option is buy a set of arps for SBC400 to have the longer studs and solve the problem...

Any ideas? Suggestions??

the other option was solder the tray to the pan.

 

I'll send you a pic of how I did mine. all you gotta do is tweak the tray to clear the rods. did you already put on your oil pump? if not dont forget to clearance the pump body for the stud thats under it. I'll send a pic of that too. missing that cost me alot of money/downtime cause it messed up my rear main cap trying to torque down the oil pump bolt. had to replace the rear main cap and get it align honed.

chris

 

Oil pump can be disassembled... so it doesn't matter...

The problem is that the ARP bolts are too short, as noted from previous posts and searches. The problem may be solved by using some of the SBC 400 ARP main studs that are longer for this purpose.

Now, what i would really love to know is:

if using the 113-234-5601 from ARP and the mildon diamond stripper will work W/o ANYTHING ELSE
http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerc...41&prmenbr=361

I know LJ uses this windage tray, but he is not sure which studs did he use for his mains.

It looks like from the pictures he has
http://para.noid.org/~lj/WindageTray.jpg
http://para.noid.org/~lj/WindageTrayDipstick.jpg

that he could have installed a stock windage tray. And if i would have been able to do that in the first place, well, i wouldn't be posting here.

 

I had a little cap made that screwed on top of the ARP studs. The cap spaces the windage tray to the correct height, and has a threaded piece on top that goes through the holes of the windage tray and with some nuts, secures it. It works great and I can use the stock tray.

 

who made it?
instructions where to get it?

THanks

 

I had a friend in a machine shop fab it for me. It's a piece of 5/8 hex with the 3/8 fine thread cut in one end to sit on the ARP studs. The threads are cut with a bottoming tap. I measured the required additional height at .150", and the other end of the piece is turned to 5/16" or 1/4" standard thread. The small threaded end is only about 1/2 inch tall. The tray sits on the hex, with the small threaded end sticking through the holes. It clears the crank perfectly. A washer and a 5/16 or 1/4 nut is all that's needed to secure the tray.

It's custom, but pretty easy to make.

 

i guess i'll try and do that... i will check if the mildon tray works and/or this.

 

I'd find a longer stud.

Rich

 

that is precisely what i am trying to do... was wondering if the install kit that mildon sell's is the appropriate one as LJ has installed in his.

 

Sorry to resurrect an old thread but what did you end up doing?

 

The std ARP SBC studs with windage tray will work if your going to use the Mildon diamond scrapper windage tray as pictured. I have it on my LT1 if your going to get any other tray youll have to get longer studs.

 

I have the Milodon studs and the diamond stripper tray, I'm going to build it up in a few weeks and see how it goes - if I can use it with the stock pan.

 

This is a Moroso tray that's been shortened to the same length as a stock tray. the studs are Moroso.

Frank

 

Verified that standard studs without windage tray provisions will not work.
They aren't even close. I attempted to bolt mine up tonight an failed miserably.

Guess I'll have to get the install kit....but wait summit and jegs have it on back order....

goosfraba.......gooooossssffraaaaabaaaa

 

I used the stud with tray provision, actually I wanted to use the stock tray but they were too short, so I bought the Mildon tray. I did have to bend it a little into more of a U to fit over the stock tray, but I ended up with a Mildon pan as well.