In the middle of a LT1 swap and ??? On the intake setup.
#1
In the middle of a LT1 swap and ??? On the intake setup.
Ok, Im dropping a 95 trans am LT1 into my 91 camaro and right now im in the process of wiring it up and im almost done and just have a couple of questions because I finally got around to buying the lt1 intake setup. I wanted to ask what the hell is this long thing that is capped going towards the floor? I've never seen this before and is there anyway to cut it around the bellow and cap it off? Also, for the wiring, where does the positive battery cable go to...Mine had 3 locations 2 of which I know. Battery to alternator, to starter, and where does the third cable go? Also where is the power distribution bolt normally at and what goes to it? Thank you and pictures would be greatly appreciated.
#3
The long thing you are talking about sounds like you are talking about the donkey dong attachment to the 90* elbow ? That is just a silencer , you can take it off and cap it or buy a 1LE elbow that comes without it .
It really makes no difference IMO
It really makes no difference IMO
#4
Yea, my problem really isn't performance, I just feel its making my engine bay a bit cluttered. just saw the 1le intake and its 55 shipping, I just paid $50 for my elbow and maf and would like to cap this one if possible, any writeups? Thanks for the reply, anyone know how thier power wiring is setup?
#5
MBA Products makes an aluminum plug to put in the opening. I think its about $35.
I took the plastic piece that I removed, and cut the top 2" off it. I pushed the 2" piece up into the elbow, until it stuck out of the opening, inside the elbow. Scribed around the edge of the part that stuck out of the elbow, removed it and contoured it to match the inside surface of the elbow. Filled the piece with some 2-part epoxy, and sanded it to precisely match the contours of the inside of the elbow. Put a band clamp around the "neck" on the elbow to hold the home made "plug" in place.
Some people also use an oval shaped cap off an old Pert shampoo bottle.....
I took the plastic piece that I removed, and cut the top 2" off it. I pushed the 2" piece up into the elbow, until it stuck out of the opening, inside the elbow. Scribed around the edge of the part that stuck out of the elbow, removed it and contoured it to match the inside surface of the elbow. Filled the piece with some 2-part epoxy, and sanded it to precisely match the contours of the inside of the elbow. Put a band clamp around the "neck" on the elbow to hold the home made "plug" in place.
Some people also use an oval shaped cap off an old Pert shampoo bottle.....
#6
Originally posted by Pasky
Yea, my problem really isn't performance, I just feel its making my engine bay a bit cluttered. just saw the 1le intake and its 55 shipping, I just paid $50 for my elbow and maf and would like to cap this one if possible, any writeups? Thanks for the reply, anyone know how thier power wiring is setup?
Yea, my problem really isn't performance, I just feel its making my engine bay a bit cluttered. just saw the 1le intake and its 55 shipping, I just paid $50 for my elbow and maf and would like to cap this one if possible, any writeups? Thanks for the reply, anyone know how thier power wiring is setup?
The moderators put a "sticky" about TTT abuse on the top of the forum, so you better watch the "bumps".
#7
Oh okay, sorry about the bump then. I was ignorant. Anyways, thanks for that picture, big help. I just gotta figure out how im gonna get my old fusable links to that side or the battery to the opposite side where the links are.
Actually, what I was thinking of doing was putting the alternator cable as normal and grabbing the old fusible links and attaching a lead to the alternator so it can go through the bolt and just tighten the nut down on both of them.
You don't think i'd have a problem in doing this setup do you? I won't overload the fusebox with it straight to the alternator? As far as the ground cables, the only ones i've seen so far are the ones that are on the drivers side coil bolt on the drivers side head.
Once again, thank you for the picture, now I gotta find a good spot (unless the alternator will be okay) to put the relay hot wires too. Thanks again and where are those ground cables on the passenger side?
Actually, what I was thinking of doing was putting the alternator cable as normal and grabbing the old fusible links and attaching a lead to the alternator so it can go through the bolt and just tighten the nut down on both of them.
You don't think i'd have a problem in doing this setup do you? I won't overload the fusebox with it straight to the alternator? As far as the ground cables, the only ones i've seen so far are the ones that are on the drivers side coil bolt on the drivers side head.
Once again, thank you for the picture, now I gotta find a good spot (unless the alternator will be okay) to put the relay hot wires too. Thanks again and where are those ground cables on the passenger side?
Last edited by Pasky; 03-23-2004 at 03:19 PM.
#8
Battery cable ground
Small PCM and sensor ground on the block, below #6 plug .
Coil stud grounds. There are a couple of ring terminals in the wiring harness and another braided ground strap that goes to the LH frame rail.
If your car alread has a spot where the fusible links are gathered, I would just extend the lead from the battery cable to that point. Putting them all on the alternator stud may not be very tidy, IMO.
Small PCM and sensor ground on the block, below #6 plug .
Coil stud grounds. There are a couple of ring terminals in the wiring harness and another braided ground strap that goes to the LH frame rail.
If your car alread has a spot where the fusible links are gathered, I would just extend the lead from the battery cable to that point. Putting them all on the alternator stud may not be very tidy, IMO.
#9
Well, its only one extra wire on the alternator on the fusibile link. Then the wire Forks off to another ring lead which is where i'll probably be putting my relay plugs, but thank you very much for that helpful info.
#10
Sorry for being a bit of a nuisance, but you wouldn't happen to know where the coolant sensor is for the gauges would you. I found 2 of the 3 coolant sensors and havn't found the one with the single wire for the gauges. I just spliced the oil pressure sensor, tach, and battery cables and im almost done with my swap .
#13
Right here for people that like visuals.
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