NJLT1SS

Hey guys, I am in the process of a clutch install. I have a Star Stage 3 clutch and pressure plate, and a stock resurfaced flywheel. Removing the trans wasnt a big deal, with all of the bolts removed, it slid back without a hitch. I have the clutch/pressure plate assembly in, aligning it with the alignment tool provided, torqued down to spec, along with a new GM pilot bearing. I installed the bellhousing, and now I am trying to get the trans back in. Me and a good friend of mine that races a 9 second Doug Nash shifed Mustang was over helping me. We would get the trans all the way in except for about 1/2 inch or so, and from there it wouldnt slide in all of the way. We tried several times, pulling the trans back and fourth, and then finally out to see what was binding. He told me to realign the clutch/pressure plate and to try it again. The trans seems like it doesnt want to slide into the pilot bearing. We were going to put a few bolts in to see if we could tighten them down to get it in the rest of the way, but we decided against it, as he told me the trans should slide right in. He has done many clutches before in Mustangs, and told me that the T-56 must be the heaviest manual trans that there is, even more than the Doug Nash he runs. Any advice from some people that have experienced this?


Nick

bad95z28

I'm not sure if its good or not but we put some bolts in on my brother in laws car and pulled it up the rest of the way with the bolts. We tried for quite a while to push it in and finally gave up and used the bolts.

Michael

Super Slow '97

I used the bolts to pull the transmission flush and had no problems. I have done a couple of Mustang clutches and they do slide in a little easier. Hope this helps. Matt

97 RedSS

Make sure you pull the clutch fork back and push the tranny in then you can slide the clutch fork on the TO bearing..

Cody

95CamaroZ-28

Try turning the input shaft by putting the driveshaft into the tranny and rotating it (tranny must be in gear for it to turn the input shaft). Good luck with it.

NJLT1SS

Hey guys, thanks for all of the suggestions so far. 97 RedSS I have the clutch fork pulled all the way back and hanging there, I double checked that, and its ready to slide over the TO bearing when the tranny is finally in. bad95z28 , Super Slow '97 , seems like you guys have used the bolts to get the trans in that last 1/2 inch or so. I have heard of other people doing this as well, but I dont feel safe about doing it. I might use it as a last resort though. 95CamaroZ-28 I will try turning the output shaft, maybe this will help with that last 1/2 inch or so. Has anyone not had good luck with the clutch alignment tool provided by Star or anyone else? I cant understand why it binds like this at the point where its almost in. Keep the suggestions coming, I wont be trying again till the mid afternoon. Has anyone ever got one to slide in all the way without having to use the bolts to pull it on? Thanks again.


Nick

95CamaroZ-28

I've never used the bolts to pull my tranny back in. It is a PITA, but with enough pushing, turning, shaking, etc it will go all the way in. I usually start a couple of bolts to help keep it lined up once I get it up there and am working on the last little bit. I don't believe it's any problem with the clutch alignment, they're just a pain to get back in all the way. Good luck.

dmoss69

The T.O. arm kicked my butt before, so I'd look to that, but if it is all the way out, that's no the prob.

Another thing, Jack up on the crankshaft, that should give you a little more play since it will lower the back of the engine. (may have to losen the motor mount bolts) This way, you can have more room to work with on the top of the tranny, more room to shake that thing around.

Check the input shaft for score marks where it could be binding in the pilot bushing.

Put a dab of grease on the nipples that go into the bellhousing.

Grease up that pilot bushing. Also, make sure that you don't have too much grease inside of the pilot bushing, or you'll get a hydrualic effect, where the tranny can't pull itself all the way in the pilot bushing. All you want is a film of grease on the input shaft and pilot bushing.

Check the gear shifter also for binding on the under carriage. (which I doubt it is)

Another thing, Just a thought....

When I put my motor and tranny together, I put a bead of RTV sealant around the bell housing where it meets the engine block, just for the sole purpose of the ol infamous INTAKE LEAK! If your intake ever leaks, this will prevent the oil from running in any cracks between the block and tranny and getting to your clutch. (eventhough there shouldn't be any) I even put some RTV where the dust cover goes on also to seal that in. I still left the little slot at the very bottom of the dust cover open just in case I ever had a rear main seal leak.

Let us know what happens!

D Moss

JohnD

The same thing happened to me and I solved the problem. My clutch alignment tool didn't actually align the disk as good as it needed to be. I stuck the allignment tool in and then centered the disk under the Pressure plate with my fingers as close as i could feel before tightening it up. I ended up moving it about 1/4" up and the trans just slid in.

NJLT1SS

Thanks alot for all of the helpfull tips guys. I am going to try to realign the clutch disk right now, and try to get this thing back in there. I will post my results later, and let you know what made it work.


Nick

NJLT1SS

Hey guys, I finally got the trans bolted up. I loosened up the pressure plate, and realigned the clutch disk, this time doing what JohnD said. I noticed even with the alignment tool in there, I could still move the disk up and down about 1/4 of an inch. I centered it as best I could, and got the trans in closer this time than previous attempts. With the remaining 1/4 inch or so to push the trans in, I just got a few bolts started, and proceded to slowly crank it on the rest of the way. The bolts were not hard to tighten at all this time, and the trans pulled to the bellhousing smoothly. I already have the driveshaft, torque arm and trans crossmember in, and the harness plugged into the trans. Just need the shifter on, and to double check a few things, and I will get to see how this Star stage 3 clutch really is. The peddle pressure seems to be a little stiffer, and it appears that they use an LT4 pressure plate? Oh well, I will post tomorrow when its all buttoned up, and let you know my thoughts on the clutch. Thanks again for all of the help guys.



Nick

97Z-M6

that last half isnt the clutch holding you up. its the two pins that the tranny slide onto that stick out the back of the bell housing. there are also two on the block that the bell housing slides on. when you push the tranny up it hits on those two 1/2" long pins and that is when you should put the bolts in and draw it up the rest of the way.

but its good to see you got it going.

95 Z/28 LT1

For future reference, using the bolts to suck the tranny in the last bit is a bad idea. Next time, put all the bolts in as far as they will thread easily, bolt on your slave cylinder and have someone give the clutch pedal a kick. The tranny will fall into place easily.