I have never seen a melling pump go out but it might also be the shaft but that is a arp harded shaft.But a few days ago I lost oil pressure so I tried to see if it was the pump or the pick up so I added a few extra qts of oil and still no pressusre so now I have to pull the pan and see if its the pump or the shaft.

So I was thinking of four pointing the car and droping the k-member to get to the pan or is there an easier was.Also I have the canton 7qt pan so if anyones done this pleasre give pointers.

 

before you drop the pan, might want to check your oil pressure sensor, mine was showing no oil pressure and it was the sensor.

 

both sending units are fine I checked them first I have the stock and an autometer.Also the lifters are clatering so that means no oil also.

 

I know I have seen the pin in the pump shaft fail and it just freewheeled inside the rotor in the pump.

 

Something could have also got stuck in the pressure relief valve. This allows the oil to return to the pan instead of building pressure.

I had a piece of casting flash do this on a car I bought once. Took hours to get the pan off & only minutes to fix the pump.

 

It might be the plastic pump drive that runs off of the cam. If ya got the wrong gear for the cam the gear and cam may be chewed up.

 

Thanks guys I will find out tomorrow.I still have to pull the pan nomater what to find out what went wrong

 

Alright guys i got the pan off and the pick up tubes on and fine the pump is fine also.I checked out the shaft and its fine so i put the shaft back in the block to see if the gear was fine and thats good to.My next step was pulling the rear cap and look at the bearing and its fine from a little wear nothing is wrong.I'm going to see if I can pull the other side of the bearing out and put air to the sending unit to see if it something in the line.

So on that does anybody have a diagram of the oiling route of an lt1 I would like to see where to start because if the pumps working and the cracks getting oil where does it go to get to the cam and the rest of the stuff up top.

 

Bingo my first thought!

 

Like i said with the shaft inserted in the block it only turns a little for play so I still think the gear is fine I'm going to try turning over the motor with the shaft in but i still think its going to be something else.

 

If it's got over a few thousands that's too much and would indicate something going on there. Or the male/female coupling's have a lot of slack. Can ya get around to see the cam gear and drive gear? Ya can probably see the cam gear easier.

 

Does anyone make a metal replacement?

 

Ya got bronze,composite, and steel (cast or billet). Take your pick. Ya need to run what the cam was designed for.
OBTW the composite gear is $135.00

I just understood your question:
No I have had some made from the deminsions of the bottom of a dist. I have them made from aluminum and run the factory shaft and gear that is in the plastic piece. They have small caged needle brgs in them like an MSD.
They ain't cheap to have made.