Ok I have got my forged 355 rebuild coming from Summit for my 95 Ta, and I am going to be running a 224/230 comp extreme cam. My questions is could I use these rocker arms with 1.7 ratio on these valve springs and be alright? According to my math the cam would have .570/.578 lift with 1.7 rrs. Is that too close for .600 lift springs?

Also would I need a shorter pushrod?

My winter plans are:

going from my hotcammed stock headed LT1 to a 224/230 cam and a set of ported heads, sound like a plan?

Can i squeeze close to 400 hp out this combo? my heads are going to be pretty good for stock casting and the intake is going to be just a trick. I am also doing alot of stuff to the bottom end to get rid of some windage losses.

One final ? how do I keep the stock windage tray and use ARP main bolts?

 

My opinion is,if you want more lift get a bigger stick. 1.7's mean more stress on the stems and bushings.

 

ok I will just run my 1.6rrs on it then, that will give me .536/.540 lift. I am still going to use the .600 lift springs tho, just incase I ever want to paly with the rocker ratio.

I am going to be running ARP wavelock rod bolts in this combination because it is going to see at least a 150 shot of nitrous. What else will I need in the bottom end to survive that and more? My bottom end will be forged SRP pistons, stock rods (but shotpeened), and stock crank (but aero'd, balanced, and shotpeened)

So would you run main bolts or studs?

If I run bolts can I still keep the stock windage tray? If so how?

 

I didnt know summit sold a rebuilt forged 355 LT1, can you tell me whats in the short block and what it costs?

 

it isn't a shortblock, it is a forged piston 0.030 over rebuilt kit for hte LT1, $540 and you get everything u need to rebuild the motor, from the gaskets down to the platigauge.

 

HUmm so what do you get forged pistons and some bearings? $540 cant include forged rods or a crank. I thought you were getting a fully forged bottom end sorry.

 

u get forged SRP pistons, clevite bearings, felpro gaskets, melling HV oil pump, Hastings rings, cam bearings, assembly lube, and plastiguage.

$540 is not a bad price for all that.

the only thing it doesn't come with is bolts.

 

If you want more lift try the comp cams 233/239 on a 112lsa. The lift is .569 int .577 exh. with 1.6 rockers. I talked to Llyod Elliot about this cam for my 383 and he said it should be good for around 6400 rpm in a 350. In my 383 it will be good for 6200 RPM. Check with him about his heads package. He will set you up with the right parts. PHone him. Nice guy and he'll listen to what you got to say and you'll decide from there. He cleared up a lot for me. Very knowledgeable. Trying hard not to make this sound like an advertisement for the guy but that is just the way he comes off.

 

Stock main bolts will survive with that bottom end...In 355 lt1 I recently built with stock crank and rods with KB Hyperutectics we squeezed 150 at it with no problem at all,you will need a fuel pump and injectors to go anymore..just make sure you keep the RPM range liveable and everything should be good.

 

i don't want to push teh stock main bolts that far, I would like to have ARP everything in the bottom end, jsut for some peace or mind.

Anyone know the PN for the ARP main bolts? I know someone has used ARP main bolts on their LT1.

 

I used ARP main bolts, I dont remember the number right now, but if I can find the box I will let you know. I just ordered the three bolts that hold the windage tray from Jason Cromer, and then ordered the ARP's from Summit. Then I just didnt use three of the ARP main bolts. I also used the ARP rod bolts and a ARP oil pump stud and ARP head bolts. They are high quality and look nice

Let me know if I can help, just PM me or something.