ENRKyle20

title says it all. I measured them with plastigauage so who knows how acurate it is. But most measure right around .0019 - .0022 with one or 2 a little looser (not much). That going to be ok?.. 10W30?..

Thanks

MichiganSkip

If you meant .0019-.0022 then yes maybe a little tight, otherwise you'd better use 10W100

Google is your friend, just one example out of many if you do a search for "LT1 Main bearing clearances"

http://www.customclassictrucks.com/t...fications.html

ENRKyle20

yea im sorry. I did mean .00XX.. 10W100.. lol, what!!???.. ahh.. hmm..

anyway. so its a little tight.. should I do somehitng about it?.. or should I asume that plastigauage is junk and very inccurate and just go with it?

MichiganSkip

I err on the side of caution. You could recheck them with a bore gage if you have access to one. Are they stock or oversize bearings?Meaning has the crank been turned or not?

ENRKyle20

stock berings on a eagle cast steel crank

ulakovic22

Any work been done to the crank yet or is it out of the box?

MichiganSkip

http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles...nce/index.html

I'd go this route, and if need be, order bearings with clearances you can live with

WS6T3RROR

Plastiguage is not very reliable, thats why I own a $800 sunnen gauge. However if you think you're readings are pretty accurate, and you're sure you're using the english side and not the metric units. Then I would go to a set of .001 oversized bearings and just use half a shell in them all except maybe the rear main i might use a whole shell there to get it closer to .003"

My engines usually just run a stock volume pump with high pressure spring with 10w40 rotella synthetic. All they ever do on the gauge is show either 40psi at hot idle, or 70psi at any rpm above 2500.