I took off my whol intake assemply, from the elbow to the airbox. I disconnected the hose to the intake, the IAT sensor, and i unclipped the MAF, to clean my throttle body. Then i reinstalled them all, the car came up with a service engine soon light. So i had a problem with the MAF sensor connector (wiring taht looks like it runs to the coil?) before, so i popped the hood, and wiggled it a little and the car hesitated and then stalled. I restarted the car and played with the piece to where the SES light came off. I have had a previous code for the MAF, in fact i changed the MAF thinking that was the problem but now i know it has to do something with the wiring on top to the (coil?). Drives perfect but sometimes (i guess due to bumps or whatever, the connector piece moves) and the car sputters while driving and will eventually want to stall out(although it hasnt stalled yet while driving, only at idle). But everytime i play with the connector it seems to fix it. How much does this piece cost and is it hard to take out and rewire, it looks like its a plastic clip to clip(from the MAF to the coil). This is really aggravating me, in one day 3 times on the highway i had to pull over and mess with this thing, and in NY thats not fun , people are stupid here... im not looking to get ran over lol. SORRY for the longgg post i just felt like i needed to vent.
Thanks for any info guys, fully appreciate it!
Dan

 

I believe the maf sensor is a weatherpack connector, you'll need a special tool to get wires in and out of there. Assuming that the connector is not damaged, you'll probably need to splice in some new wire in there. Have you tried just leaving it unplugged and just driving without it? Supposedly it will run without it, but an intermittent signal could confuse the pcm.

 

There must be some downfall, to running with out it correct? But what taht downfall is i dont know, speed density mode? not sure

 

It's not quite as accurate as metering air flow. Performance-wise, it shouldn't be an issue, I don't think anyone has been able to prove one way or the other any measurable difference between map and maf on a sub 500 hp lt1. It's basically there for more accurate fuel control, which means better emissions.

 

Its your harness go to the daler and get a new one for 18.00 dollars and replace same prob with mine.. the harness should be all white just line up wires and fix...

 

Just to clarify, the MAF wiring does not go to or connect to the coil. It just happens to be in the same bundle as the harness wires to the coil, IC module and IAT sensor. Some of the wires go back to the PCM, the pink wire comes from a fuse.

http://shbox.com/1/harness.htm

 

So what should i buy? the connector piece or do i need all new wiring ?