so i have made my decision and im thinking of boreing my cylinder walls...if possible...
but i would like to know a rough cost of doing that to my 93 z. i am pretty sure this is what i want to do, but if anybody else has any other opinions on what i should do for the cheapest but best bet, then through it out at me! i do have another lt1 engine out of a truck but the main bolts are opposite to my 93 z.....

also, does anyone know where any machine shop would be near Aurora or parker, colorado?

 

LT1 engines were only installed in Corvettes, F-Bodys and B-Bodys. None in any trucks.

All LT1 blocks are identical, except the Corvette engines had 4-bolt main caps and the others had 2-bolt main caps. There is nothing that would prevent you from using either a 2-bolt or 4-bolt main block to build your engine. There are no LT1 blocks where "the main bolts are opposite".

 

sorry i meant a 350 out of a truck. not an lt1. and it has the 4 blot main(correct me if im wrong ,but the camaros are 2 bolt mains)and i just dont know if that would stop me from being able to put it in my car or what kind of things i would have to do just to get the main bloting correct.

 

Agree with the previous comment. Also you would have no reason to tear the engine down to boar the cylinder walls, unless there is damage or you want to build a forged stroker. If your engine in good condition Reasearch a "Heads and cam" combanation, along with all the supporting upgrades.

 

thats the problem. my car wont turn and i dont know if my cylinder walls are pitted or are fine...so either way i am going to have to teart it down to at least see if there is any damage, rust, or anything else...i really just am stuck i guess you can say

 

A "350 out of a truck. not an lt1" will not be an easy install in your car. Its a "Gen 1" small block Chevy. You would have to convert to a conventional rear mounted distributor, have the LT1 heads converted to match the different coolant passages on the Gen 1 block. With the rear mounted distributor, you would have to figure a way to install the Opti optical sensor in the distributor, or ditch the factory computer (PCM) and start over with a different setup, either a 3rd Gen F-Body ECM or an aftermarket computer.

Before anyone can tell you how much they will charge you to bore a block that has possibly been damaged, they will have to see it. That's the only way they will know how much it needs to be bored, and what other corrective steps need to be taken. The boring will probably cost less than the new set of pistons you are going to need.

Once they have the block, it should be tanked (cleaned), the decks checked for flatness/squareness and the main bearings checked for alignment, and quite likely align bored. You don't just take a block into a machine shop, let them run the boring bar through the cylinders and take it home.

 

I would assume that when you say it wont turn you cannot manually turn the crank? did you run the car without oil or coolant? did it sit for years?
or the car just wont start?

 

well, thats out of the question now
and thank you for letting me know that stuff before i got myself into a big problem.

 

yes, i cannot turn it manually.it had a blown head gasket and water came out with the oil when i drained it and it sat for a year before i bought it.

 

Alright, sorry i did not know the whole story. You will need to tear the engine down and see what the total damages are, then build it back up stronger then ever.

 

yep

 

does anyone know where i could find a good machine shop to have them check my engine out near Denver/Aurora/Parker, Colorado?