LT's and stock wires...
#1
LT's and stock wires...
Will they last at least a couple of weeks or no chance at all?
I will go with the OVC setup soon, but right now I still have stock wires on the engine and I'm doing a cam and lts today...
I will go with the OVC setup soon, but right now I still have stock wires on the engine and I'm doing a cam and lts today...
#2
I have MSD 8.5mm Superconductors and jet hot longtubes.
I am not using the OTV setup. Just got some taylor firesleeve for ceratin spots where I thought the wires might touch and used plenty of zip ties in other places to prevent them from getting to close to the headers and this has worked for over 15,000 miles now.
I am not using the OTV setup. Just got some taylor firesleeve for ceratin spots where I thought the wires might touch and used plenty of zip ties in other places to prevent them from getting to close to the headers and this has worked for over 15,000 miles now.
#5
Save your money on the fire sleeves and pick up some $14.00 heat reflective tape, and wrap some around the closest contact points on your plug wires. Also, use the tape to wrap up the harness that runs down to the starter, knock sensor, and O2 sensor.
#8
summit, jegs, thunderracing, tbyrne, and most likely autozone.
If that header touchs the heat reflective tape it'll burn right though it... It reflects heat but does not hold up against it on contact.. I used stock wires but I had an extra long wire that i had to go over the valve cover with, drivers side 3rd one back.
If that header touchs the heat reflective tape it'll burn right though it... It reflects heat but does not hold up against it on contact.. I used stock wires but I had an extra long wire that i had to go over the valve cover with, drivers side 3rd one back.
#10
Ive been running wires in stock location for a few years now.
Drivers side they all get tucked against block, no problems.
Passenger side is a bit more tricky. # 6 and 8 get routed behind the dipstick tube (close to block), and under starter wires. 2 and 4 are just routed against the block. However, i run all the wires behind and under the accessory bracket so they come up to the opti, instead of down to it. (right above/behind tensioner) Its really tight getting the boots through, but they fit.
Drivers side they all get tucked against block, no problems.
Passenger side is a bit more tricky. # 6 and 8 get routed behind the dipstick tube (close to block), and under starter wires. 2 and 4 are just routed against the block. However, i run all the wires behind and under the accessory bracket so they come up to the opti, instead of down to it. (right above/behind tensioner) Its really tight getting the boots through, but they fit.
#11
I have Jet Hot Hooker LTs and MSD superconductors run without OVC.
I don,t see any reason to run OVC unless you like the looks, I have over 4k miles on the LT install with no burnt wires.
Routing is the key.
I don,t see any reason to run OVC unless you like the looks, I have over 4k miles on the LT install with no burnt wires.
Routing is the key.
#12
Originally posted by revtime
I have Jet Hot Hooker LTs and MSD superconductors run without OVC.
I don,t see any reason to run OVC unless you like the looks, I have over 4k miles on the LT install with no burnt wires.
Routing is the key.
I have Jet Hot Hooker LTs and MSD superconductors run without OVC.
I don,t see any reason to run OVC unless you like the looks, I have over 4k miles on the LT install with no burnt wires.
Routing is the key.
It did take a couple looks and about two hours between "strategizing" and actually tying off the wires to get the job done. Long story short...take your time and ou'll have no troubles with LT's and stock wire routings. There is no need for reflective tape or fire sleeves.
Schantin
1997 Camaro Z28
Virginia Tech 31 - Miami 7
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