Just started a new 383 Stroker and the good news is that it fired, idled fine, stayed cool and had plenty of steady oil pressure. Bad news is the LTCC Module is throwing codes. I've already emailed Bob Bailey, but as usual I'm getting impatient.

Done a decent amount of research on this board and seen similiar issues. On to the problem:

LTCC green LED comes on and stays on. Red LED blinks 1, pauses, blinks 3 times and repeatsthe whole time the car is running. Car is a 93 and I got Bob's 93 specific wiring diagram and believe I've followed it correctly. Tach filter is removed, wired to the two whites as instructed, and to the two pinks. Coils are mounted on homemade aluminum rails and grounded to a stud on each of the rails, from the stud on each fuel rail is a 12 guage wire that is grounded to the block ground on the front driver side of the block where the stock braided ground is located. I checked the grounds with a Multi-Meter and have good continuity.

Upgraded the ignition fuse to 20 amps as instructed and mounted the box just in front of the driver side shock tower. Box is also grounded, which I've also tested and have good continuity. Not much on the car is stock, even in the wiring department, battery is in the trunk connected to the front passenger side stock battery location via 2/0 welding cable where I made a terminal box using copper bar stock. Reading the same voltage on the battery as I am at the front of the car.

One thing I'm currently doing that I don't like is using the ignition circuit to energize a relay that connects my electric water pump to the hot side of the battery. First test this evening will be to disconnect the water pump connection temporarily just to see if noise from the pump is feeding back to the ignition circuit. I had found another switched 12v source in that location but apparently not enough to energize the water pump relay, so I went back to the good old standard of just shoving a wire into the ignition fuse. Ghetto I know, but it worked fine before I tore the motor down.

Anyways any other suggestions would be welcome. BTW has anybody heard from Bob recently. I sent him an email a couple of month's ago and got an immediate response.

 

Anyone, Ferris, anyone?

 

Doesn't look like there is too much interest in this thread but I did want to post an update that might help future LTCC users. Bob got back to me today and had a couple off excellent recommendations. Fix was actually two parts:

1. Moved the water pump relay off of the ignition circuit fuse, actually used the non existent ABS relay socket that is switched 12V.

2. Bob also recommended trying to enable the Mode 3 switch which apparently "changes the synchronization parameters slightly", his words, and that fixed the 1 blink code.

Bob apologized for not getting back to me sooner and I just wanted to thank him and let everyone know that he's certainly still standing behind his product.

Now on to the y-pipe not fitting on the driver's side issue.

 

Interesting thanks for posting can you send me pics of the electric wp to the abs? I also do it the getto way! brandondavid@houston.rr.com
thanks again.
-brandon

 

Sorry no camera available, but pretty straightforward. Just connect a male spade connector to the end of the relay energizer wire and plug it into the socket where the ABS relay is, labeled pin 2 on my fuse box. Give yourself enough slack so that the fuse box cover can be put on without causing wire strain.