LT4 intake manifold...is it REAL?
LT4 intake manifold...is it REAL?
How would I verify the identity of a red intake manifofold that I recently bought. I was told it was a LT4 intake manifold that has been ported and polished and I would like to see if I got ripped off or not. $500
Also are there templates for the porting and polishing of heads? I am interested in doing this my self and I would like to NOT mess it up. If it seems like to big a task, I am not above having a experianced individual doing it.
Another thing, if I put my CC306 cam in with out tuning or programming, no headers, or anything else of that sort...can I expect it to run like a Ford?
That should cover my questions for a little while(10 min.) Thanx for any help I can get I know this was little long.
-Dan
The long winded one
Also are there templates for the porting and polishing of heads? I am interested in doing this my self and I would like to NOT mess it up. If it seems like to big a task, I am not above having a experianced individual doing it.
Another thing, if I put my CC306 cam in with out tuning or programming, no headers, or anything else of that sort...can I expect it to run like a Ford?
That should cover my questions for a little while(10 min.) Thanx for any help I can get I know this was little long.
-Dan
The long winded one
I think $500 is a little high to pay for a real LT4 manifold. Summit has them for under $300. There has yet to be any solid dyno-proven gains from porting / polishing the intake on an LT1/LT4 car.
The easiest way to check is whether or not the intake will seat well on your LT1 heads. If it mates up perfectly, congrats, you got jipped. A normal LT4 intake needs to be milled to match up with LT1 heads due to the mating angle.
Do NOT try to port/polish heads yourself. You are asking for trouble. Anything more that mild deburring of imperfections in the head casting is best left in the hands of a pro.
The 306 is a HUUUUGE cam to run on a stock bottom end (not that it doesn't pull like a mother with the right set of heads and supporting bolt-ons). But you can get similar power numbers out of a smaller cam like a comp XE 224/230 or the LT4 Hotcam. In general running a big cam without any other boltons will leave you wishing you had more power for all the effort you put in. A big cam almost always needs tuning to run to its full potential. But yes, if you drop it in, you will be able to drive your car around, albeit not in tip-top shape.
The easiest way to check is whether or not the intake will seat well on your LT1 heads. If it mates up perfectly, congrats, you got jipped. A normal LT4 intake needs to be milled to match up with LT1 heads due to the mating angle.
Do NOT try to port/polish heads yourself. You are asking for trouble. Anything more that mild deburring of imperfections in the head casting is best left in the hands of a pro.
The 306 is a HUUUUGE cam to run on a stock bottom end (not that it doesn't pull like a mother with the right set of heads and supporting bolt-ons). But you can get similar power numbers out of a smaller cam like a comp XE 224/230 or the LT4 Hotcam. In general running a big cam without any other boltons will leave you wishing you had more power for all the effort you put in. A big cam almost always needs tuning to run to its full potential. But yes, if you drop it in, you will be able to drive your car around, albeit not in tip-top shape.
Originally posted by meengreen 94z
The intake sits higher than the LT1 intake.
The intake sits higher than the LT1 intake.
Originally posted by 97WRAITH
It should say LT4 on the bottom of it. Cast in.
It should say LT4 on the bottom of it. Cast in.
Originally posted by atljar
It will have lt4 on the bottom of it, molded into the metal.
It will have lt4 on the bottom of it, molded into the metal.
The most accurate method of identification I am aware of, is the casting #. Casting # is 12550631, one up from part # stated above by Fred.
Last edited by arnie; Dec 24, 2003 at 05:40 AM.
Originally posted by predator
500 you got hit man those things go for 212
500 you got hit man those things go for 212
From that point, it is whatever the market will bear.
Originally posted by arnie
Not necessarily!
The most accurate method of identification I am aware of, is the casting #. Casting # is 12550631, one up from part # stated above by Fred.
Not necessarily!
The most accurate method of identification I am aware of, is the casting #. Casting # is 12550631, one up from part # stated above by Fred.

Also the lt4 manifolds NEED to be ported. They are no where close to matching up to the lt4 heads.
500 bucks, assuming it is ported well, isnt a jip IMO. 200 for intake + 300 port isnt bad.
i paid 224 for mine, brand new. bout 100 for the P&P and bumping to 58mm. mine does not say lt4 on the bottom. that may be something GM did on the lt4 cars that got them, but new ones ordered from gm do not have that. also mine has a part number of 12550531.
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