LT1's are SOOOOO EASY to work on!!!!11
Registered User
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 6,070
From: newton, kansas, USA
Re: LT1's are SOOOOO EASY to work on!!!!11
Originally Posted by 19camaro71
ha HA thats all i have to say about that....
so tonight i decided to start the process of replacing my starter motor because of the scary sounds it makes when starting up (yes, don't fix it untill it break, completely that is) but its got jet hot coated hooker shorty headers on it with y pipe and all...
ok so i'm pulling out the bolts, i'd say one to 2 every hour (total of 8 that hold it in). I started with the y-pipe to cat connection and that was fairly easy, then i moved to driver side y-pipe to header bolts... one was already loose and the other was a fairly easy break so that was that.... then i move over to the passenger side y-pipe to header connection... HOLY MOTHER OF GOD... so i got one bolt out, and i can't for the life of me get anything to get a hold of the other bolt to break it loose... and it was really ticking me off till i finally just went for the 02's. driver side.. easy break loose... came right out (i plan to replace them while i have everything apart) so then i go to the passenger.. the bastard won't break loose.. so i'm laying under my car cursing to the people who put the thing in why they didn't use anti-seeze or or w.e. is wrong. sure enough. the thing strips. by this time i am agreeing with what someone said earlier in the I WANTED TO BLOW THE CAR UP (then i got my parents yelling at me about patience... ha, right, patience) lost that on the 5th bolt.
SO my arms are black, my fingers are aching/bleeding kinda open wounds and the like. and i'm stuck halfway through this wondering how the hell i'm going to finish it. sorry such a long post, but venting keeps me from poping
let me know if any of you have a clue as to what i can do to fix any of this... I'd say the headers have been on there for about 5 or 6 years from the rust on them (the y-pipe is almost completely uncoated now)
thanks again
so tonight i decided to start the process of replacing my starter motor because of the scary sounds it makes when starting up (yes, don't fix it untill it break, completely that is) but its got jet hot coated hooker shorty headers on it with y pipe and all...
ok so i'm pulling out the bolts, i'd say one to 2 every hour (total of 8 that hold it in). I started with the y-pipe to cat connection and that was fairly easy, then i moved to driver side y-pipe to header bolts... one was already loose and the other was a fairly easy break so that was that.... then i move over to the passenger side y-pipe to header connection... HOLY MOTHER OF GOD... so i got one bolt out, and i can't for the life of me get anything to get a hold of the other bolt to break it loose... and it was really ticking me off till i finally just went for the 02's. driver side.. easy break loose... came right out (i plan to replace them while i have everything apart) so then i go to the passenger.. the bastard won't break loose.. so i'm laying under my car cursing to the people who put the thing in why they didn't use anti-seeze or or w.e. is wrong. sure enough. the thing strips. by this time i am agreeing with what someone said earlier in the I WANTED TO BLOW THE CAR UP (then i got my parents yelling at me about patience... ha, right, patience) lost that on the 5th bolt.
SO my arms are black, my fingers are aching/bleeding kinda open wounds and the like. and i'm stuck halfway through this wondering how the hell i'm going to finish it. sorry such a long post, but venting keeps me from poping
let me know if any of you have a clue as to what i can do to fix any of this... I'd say the headers have been on there for about 5 or 6 years from the rust on them (the y-pipe is almost completely uncoated now)
thanks again
Registered User
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 653
From: Toledo, ohio
Re: LT1's are SOOOOO EASY to work on!!!!11
Hey madwolf!! If you headers are rusting and they are Jet Hot. Jethot will recoat them for free if you send the back. Mine started rusting too. The turn around is VERY quick.
I also agree with the rest a PITA to work on them but after tearing a few completey down to the block, it has gotten much easier. I still hate doing headers!!
I also agree with the rest a PITA to work on them but after tearing a few completey down to the block, it has gotten much easier. I still hate doing headers!!
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 4,577
From: DeKalb, IL
Re: LT1's are SOOOOO EASY to work on!!!!11
Originally Posted by chevy1963
Hey madwolf!! If you headers are rusting and they are Jet Hot. Jethot will recoat them for free if you send the back. Mine started rusting too. The turn around is VERY quick.
I also agree with the rest a PITA to work on them but after tearing a few completey down to the block, it has gotten much easier. I still hate doing headers!!
I also agree with the rest a PITA to work on them but after tearing a few completey down to the block, it has gotten much easier. I still hate doing headers!!
No thanks.
I'd rather see them rust than taking them out and putting them back in again. And if I do take them out, only Kooks will be going back in.
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 470
From: Gwinnet County, GA
Re: LT1's are SOOOOO EASY to work on!!!!11
Just thought i'd throw in my $.02
I'm at the tail-end of an optispark swap (despite having a Delteq) and i'm starting to grow accustomed to putting RTV sealant at the head of almost every bolt that i come across to keep it from backing out (i have SLP Loudmouth). These cars require you to be a contortionist yes, but the returns are pretty damn good.
IMO - all you can really do is just cut and tear as much stuff out of your engine bay as you can to free up as much room as possible. I've considered yanking out my a/c system just to have more room in the engine bay with which to work. Also, moving my battery to the back to add even more room :P
These engine bays are ridiculously cramped - other than that, they're really not THAT bad to work on. Just be sure you have an assorted array of swivels, extensions etc.
I'm at the tail-end of an optispark swap (despite having a Delteq) and i'm starting to grow accustomed to putting RTV sealant at the head of almost every bolt that i come across to keep it from backing out (i have SLP Loudmouth). These cars require you to be a contortionist yes, but the returns are pretty damn good.
IMO - all you can really do is just cut and tear as much stuff out of your engine bay as you can to free up as much room as possible. I've considered yanking out my a/c system just to have more room in the engine bay with which to work. Also, moving my battery to the back to add even more room :P
These engine bays are ridiculously cramped - other than that, they're really not THAT bad to work on. Just be sure you have an assorted array of swivels, extensions etc.
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 700
From: Upstate New York
Re: LT1's are SOOOOO EASY to work on!!!!11
My longtubes started rusting at the collectors.
I ground off the rust and painted them with this:
http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/P...splay/ss-10101
It's a bit expensive but seems to be working pretty good so far.
Stainless steel Kooks weren't out when I bought my TPiS's.
I ground off the rust and painted them with this:
http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/P...splay/ss-10101
It's a bit expensive but seems to be working pretty good so far.
Stainless steel Kooks weren't out when I bought my TPiS's.
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,428
From: Boulder, CO -
Re: LT1's are SOOOOO EASY to work on!!!!11
Originally Posted by Z95m6
Are you sure you had to remove the y pipe? On my SLP's it looks like there is no room to get the starter out but you can. Just remove the bolts take it all the way forward and then tilt it down. It comes right out.
but ahh yes... first thing i did on mine was plugs... took 12 hours... got a socket wedged on a blug halfway threaded in and other side wedged to my header..... took 4 hours to get the POS off....
Registered User
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 2,734
From: Kansas City suburb of
Re: LT1's are SOOOOO EASY to work on!!!!11
I've considered yanking out my a/c system just to have more room in the engine bay with which to work.
I know some people can,t live without AC but it was just in the way.
I plan to remove the evap core next since all the other AC stuff is long gone.
AIR, EGR, all the exhaust heat shields, front bumper support, front sway bar and brackets, fog lights, rear seats and belts, are all MIA.
Plan on deleting the ABS and putting in a BMR k member with a manaul rack someday.
Anything to get some room or get rid of useless (to me) equipment.
I have been through the swollen arms looks like a bengal tiger attacked me syndrome so I will go to great lengths to get rid of anything thats not absolutely vital to ease my wrenching, or lose some weight.
I actually don,t mind working on the car now.
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,388
From: SE Michigan
Re: LT1's are SOOOOO EASY to work on!!!!11
Im ditchin my a/c soon. I saw a pic of a car with no a/c and heatercore and it HAD SOO MUCH MORE ROOM. Heard it took him 15 mins to change all the plugs and i believe it.
Registered User
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 890
From: Katy, Texas
Re: LT1's are SOOOOO EASY to work on!!!!11
Installed my AS&M headers two weeks ago. The worst mistake I think I made was I did it all by myself pretty much. Not really any of my friends are car inclined but a couple of them helped me out for a couple of hours. All in all, it took me about 3 and a half days to put them in. I still have an exhaust leak at the y-pipe collector. I kinda wish I went with the Mac's just because they are easier to do. All I have to say about tightening the bolts on these headers is what a BITCH!!
If any of you know what they look like with the passenger design, the #2 primary pretty much comes out and takes a turn over the inner bolt so its almost impossible to get to. Since they are 1 3/4 primaries, there isn't a lot of space between the bolts and the primary. I had to grind down a cheap combo wrench to get on the 12-point Breslin bolts. Whenever I tried to torque it down, the metal just bent on the wrench so I couldn't get any torque on it.
Lucky for me, I went to Sears and got a Craftsman wrench and it must of been a blessing because when the wrench was produced, the closed end was offset just enough that I could get it on the bolt....
LT1's are a pain to work on...
If any of you know what they look like with the passenger design, the #2 primary pretty much comes out and takes a turn over the inner bolt so its almost impossible to get to. Since they are 1 3/4 primaries, there isn't a lot of space between the bolts and the primary. I had to grind down a cheap combo wrench to get on the 12-point Breslin bolts. Whenever I tried to torque it down, the metal just bent on the wrench so I couldn't get any torque on it.
Lucky for me, I went to Sears and got a Craftsman wrench and it must of been a blessing because when the wrench was produced, the closed end was offset just enough that I could get it on the bolt....
LT1's are a pain to work on...
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