Hey guys I'm having an issue with my camaro I believe all the mods are in my SIG. The car starts and runs perfectly fine but after a while assuming after it warms up the Idle gets really loopy then dies off as if it can't hold idle. If itdoes it while the I'm driving and I hold the rpms steady it will go up and down a few hundred Rpms I actually have to put it in neutral and hold the rpms up to keep it running and drop it into gear to go and hope it doesn't stall out. I don't believe its a fuel issue as I can smell the raw unburnt fuel when I park it. I had a code p0100 come up I check the wires and replaced the MAF but still same problem. I'm thinking it was a false code due to it dying on me. After it dies and I try to start it up it will just crank and crank sometimes it will catch other times I have to let it sit for a few Mins and then start it. If anyone has an idea or has had an issue like this help me out. I'm at my witts end I just wasn't to be able to cruise without issue.

 

The only thing not in my sig is the Mallory 685 ignition box. Also I replaced the water pump last year but I don't believe its an opti issue . Like I said it runs and drives fine then out of nowhere it starts bugging out.

 

Someone had mentioned to me the coolant temp sensor. I have a scanner how can I tell if its acting up. Again car will start and run normally then act up after about ten min of idle time or driving. It will sultudder then stall and will be hard to start unless I let it cool for a few mins. When I replaced my water pump I replaced the temp sensor also but it was a BWD part from advance auto I should just replace it with an ac delco part I've never had luck with anything other than access delco

 

Test the opti. There is a link at the top of this section.


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any codes? Low resolution doesn't turn on the ses light.


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No codes just the maf close I got which I think was a false code BC of the issue . It starts and runs fine idles for 10-15 min after warm up then studders and struggles to idle and dies out. Then its a hard start unless I let it cool down then it s starts right away but won't idle .

 

sounds like opti to me. but hopefully someone else will respond.

 

I watched the temp on my scan tool it stick around 185 and went no higher until the car stalled and I restarted it then it went to 187. I have a 160 thermostat

 

it sounds like your getting the issue once it goes closed loop and uses the sensors. i would say its a sensor problem. bad connection or could be failing maf, map, engine coolant temp sensor, 02 sensor. start testing sensors.

 

OK thank you. To add a little more info I do not remember having this issue last year. When I brought the car out I had changed the water pump BC it started leaking last year right before I put it away. I changed the coolant temp sensor also BC I couldn't get the old one out without stripping it. As stated above I've never had anything good come out of using any other parts other than ac delco unfortunately I was in a hurry and got a temp sensor that wasn't ac delco do you believe I should start there?

Also do the temp sensors for both the dash gauge and computer (in pump) the same part number?

 

ICM damaged/failing maybe. It has a wonderful heat sink called the head, lol. Try the relocation trick for the heck of it.

 

As a test, have you tried running with the MAF unplugged to see if the problem still exists after warmup?

 

Thank u everyone I can try both of them. If I remember the car wouldn't even start with the maf unhooked . The car should be running and then I unhook it? Also I apologize for run in sentences and spelling errors I've been using my cell phone to make and update the posts and usually I'm working lol

 

If the engine is cold, it should start with the MAF unplugged. You will get an SES because it's unplugged (which you can clear). Also, on my 95, the fans will run with a cold engine and MAF unplugged. I would think the OBDII behavior will be the same.

If it won't start when cold with the MAF unplugged, then unplug it after it starts, while it's still in open loop.

 

How did you check the MAF wires - test voltage on pink wire, test ground on black/white wire, check frequency on yellow wire? Does the P0100 keep coming back after you cleared it? Failure of the pink wire seems to be a problem unique to the 97's. Could it be an intermittent failure?

Just to clarify, the PCM uses the MAF, MAP, coolant temp sensors in both open loop and closed loop. The only sensors that are ignored in open loop are the O2 sensors, because they don't work when they are cold - have to reach 600*F. Once they reach temp, engine reaches 140*F and after 205 seconds, it will enter closed loop.