I think that first connector goes the the AC Evaporator temperature sensor.

This thing....http://www.flickr.com/photos/6043330...n/photostream/

 

^That's exactly what it went to.


^The "To HVAC vacuum check valve" is plugged off on the intake.

Here is a picture of one of the injectors. Didn't really want to take it out today, so it's just a quick picture from the side.



Here's a short video of me messing with it yesterday. The only time I press the accelerator is when it's about to die, and it's just a quick tap. Also, I'm assuming my oil pressure is normal? It was just above the red after the video cut out.

 

That injector appears to be a stock LT1 injector. Did the dude before you have different injectors and swap back in the stockers? Oil pressure concerns me a little....it starts out okay, but near the end I don't think it should be getting that low....however it could be just where the thing is bouncing around so much trying to quit.

Do you know the voltage reading on the battery while it's running? Do you have a fuel pressure gauge to test the fuel pressure?

I saw the SES light turn on.....can you get the codes pulled?

I wonder if PCMforLess keeps a record of what was done to the PCM? It might not hurt to ask them if they have a record of how they tuned it(or what mods were listed when the tune was requested)?

You should not be having that much trouble getting the CC503 to run.

Are you absolutely sure the rockers are adjusted correctly?

Can you take full pictures of each side of the intake manifold and post them? Just want to see what all is present(or not present).

 

I could be wrong but the 2nd plug looks like it goes to the waterpump.....That plug is hid pretty well.

 

Look at Shoebox's photo of the 95 LT1 wiring harness. The only red/blue plug I see is the EVAP purge solenoid. And that would be hanging over the passenger side valve cover:



Entire photo:

1995 Z28 A4 Engine Harness

What did you plug the first connector into? Could it have been the AC Evap temp sensor?

 

We've got both of them figured out earlier in the thread. They were EVAP solenoid and AC Evap Temp Sensor. I was hoping for him to get a full snap shot of both sides of the intake manifold to see what all was connected/not connected. Sounds like some of the equipment has been "deleted".

 

I'll grab a photo of the intake tomorrow. I'd do it today, but the car is outside and it's pouring pretty bad. I am not absolutely certain that I got the valve lash set right.

They didn't switch out injectors, I know that for sure. It was a really young kid that just ran the car. Didn't really know much about it. I can test the fuel pressure, and test the voltage on the battery when it's running. The battery is brand new, though. The SES light comes on after about 2-minutes of the car running then sometimes it shuts off. The car doesn't have cats, and has an exhaust leak. So we figured it was that? Don't have an OBD1 code puller, so can't pull the code.

I took off one of the valve covers yesterday to see them. They were pretty tight. I rubbed my finger in the oil that sits in the heads and there are metal shavings in the oil as well as engine assembly lube. Now when I say shavings, I mean you don't notice it until you realllyyyyyyy look. But they are there. Kinda starting the think I screwed something up or overlooked something, lol.

EDIT:

I never mentioned this before, because my father told me it was normal and his little 3.4L van does the same thing. When I take out the dipstick, and smell the oil. It has a distinct gasoline smell. When the car shuts off, there is also white smoke that comes from the intake elbow.

 

There is no check for the presence of the cat in OBD-I. That's nor setting the SES light.

Typically the oil smells like fuel because it's running excessively rich. The fuel is washing the lubrication off the cylinder walls, and diluting the oil. You're going to damage the rings and maybe a bearing.

 

Finally got time to get a video of the intake. I found a few things that I didn't know of, either. So I took pictures of them as well.

Video of intake:


3 Bare wires on the right bank:


1 bare black wire:


This, I don't even know of. It is located right by the PCM:


This is getting so frustrating...I was going to adjust valve lash today on the left bank while the car was running. When I went to do so, there were only 2 rockers on that side being lubed. Something came up, so I didn't get to adjust the lash.

 

The last one is easy - fuel pump prime connector. It doesn't attach to anything. To test the fuel pump, bypassing the relay and the PCM interlocks, you hook up 12V to the connector.

http://shbox.com/1/fuel_pump_prime.jpg

 

For the first picture....that is actually the left side(all references are from the drivers seat). I can tell because I can see the shield for the brake hard lines(and the hard lines themselves). I'm not sure where they go. There is a solenoid mounted on the air pipe for my '96 Z28. That does have a red and black wire....but no third red....as best I can tell you may be dealing with some missing A.I.R. injection stuff with that. I'm not sure if there are any differences between the '95 and '96 in that area. Be sure to tape each them off with electrical tape until we know for sure(don't want any shorts).

For the 2nd picture.....the 1 black wire appears to be a ground wire(I think). There is a ground bundle that is supposed to be attached to one of the ignition coil mounting studs(along with a braided grounding strap). For sure, get that reconnected if there is not already a black wire going to that point.

Like so....

 

Not good to have metal in the oil....but I wouldn't panic at this point(although that makes me uneasy). With my rebuild, I did change the oil after the first warm up cycle.

Be careful with the rockers. I'm not sure you can really tell if they are adjust correctly just by feel. Have you adjusted rockers before? If not, be sure to read up on Shoebox's site. Do you know what preload was added to them(1 turn? 1/2 turn?)?

 

We're not really sure if it's from the past engine or not. My father was suppose to have had the heads cleaned...but he's not always worth counting on lol. When I adjusted the rockers when they were on the engine stand. I did exactly how my GM book told me. Then added 3/4 preload to the lifters.


^ On my coil, I have two plug ins for it. I don't know if the image above is stock or what...But The gray connector that is connected to something else(in the above picture) is also connected to my coil.

 

I think Rob has an MSD box and the gray connector is connected to the MSD apapter harness. Yours would be connected to the coil.

 

A very happy update, maybe. I was fiddling with the car today and I took the current MAF sensor off..It was dusty and VERY dirty. My father had a different(Small diameter) MAF sensor laying around that I plugged in and got into the elbow(Small leak) It idles! 1,000RPM as said by the previous owner the computer was suppose to idle at! Would this be the end of my problems?! Also, would a bad MAF make the car run really rich?

My only problem now is when trying to start the car, I feel a vibration when it's turning over. And when I rev the car it vibrates a little. I had two flex plates for the car(1 from the previous engine, 1 from the new engine. I randomly grabbed one and bolted it on. You can't really hear any vibration on the outside, or inside the engine bay. What could it be?