Ok....I just bought a 95 Z28 Camaro, and when I bought it, it didn't want to run....it would idle around 500rpms and when you pressed the gas pedal, it would slowly rev up "it would take about 7 seconds to hit 5k. I thought all that was wrong with it, was clogged converters. Well it turned out that the converter was stripped and was basically a hollow piece of pipe. So then we thought it was the pcm, so we ordered a new one from GM, and it still doesn't want to run....so after this we decided to check the timing, all the sensors and opti-spark, they we're all good, but it looked like the opti was firing early but I don;t know if that's the problem....but we also discovered that a head bolt was broke by exhaust manifold causing it to have a slight leak, when we were workin on the car....As of now we think that it's the plugs and wires.......i've put so much money in this car in the last five day's, I was just wondering if you guys had any ideas as to what else it could be if it isn't the plugs.
Thanks for your help

 

Plugs and wires should have been the first thing you did. If that doesn't help, check the fuel filter and injectors.

How did you test the opti?

 

look ,you and your buddies can break you by guessing and getting guesses on the internet is worse-for about a 100 bucks GM techs will tell you what's wrong, remember things are worth what you pay for them! I am NOT a TECH but I am a SERVICE ADVISOR (i get paid to give people bad news) and i'll bet it is not as bad as you think but if you keep reving it to 5000 it can't last-

 

I already bought a new fuel filter. As for the opti, I personally didn;t test it,I had a mechanic at a local shop test it, but I have no idea how he did it.

 

I talked to Gm and they said it was the pcm....

 

is car drivable? or is towing how you got it home-how much did you pay and what are your plans for car-stick or auto-you said converter was gutted,well how much other hot rodding has been done to car and did local mechanic charge for test ,was it doing this BEFORE you bought it,tell us about the test drive-don't make us torture you for this info-we have ways to make you talk!

 

you really can't drive the car, it will run but will only go about 40 mph, and when you do drive it, the exhaust maniflod will turn red from the heat "which lead me to belove it was the converters." I payed 3000 for the car, it's an automatic, but when I get the time and money i'm looking to convert it to a stick. It has a comp cam and lifters in it, but I have no idea of the specs, Flowmaster dual full exhaust, I haven't got the final bill yet, but for the parts and labor i'm sure it'll be around a thousand dollars. I didn't test drive it when we got it, but that was because we thought the converters were clogged.

 

what exactly does the repair order say you got for your money,and he turned the car over to you with no final amount,my customers know to the penny what it will take to get their keys back.have you tried open exhaust,and do you have a check engine light on?

 

Well, since we haven't figured out what is wrong with it exactly, it's kind of hard to know how much it's going to cost to fix it.....yes we have tried open exhaust...still the same thing...but no the check engine light does not stay on.

 

have you hooked it to a scanner for real time figures...not just a code reader but a real nice (like $4000.bucks NICE) diag tool.and is your tech REALLY ASE certified in emmissions and diagnotics?not to knock your guy but we have most cars diaged in 2-3 hours...not fixed but diag and estimated (my lead tech flagged 78hrs.last week). bad pcm makes the most sense but it sounds as though 1 problem could be masking another keep us posted

 

Yes, he's ASE certified, but like I said we replaced the pcm.....do you have any other ideas as to what it could be?
Thank you for all your help so far

 

What indication did you get that showed "the opti was firing early"?

Do you really mean you have a broken head bolt.... not a broken manifold bolt????

Has anyone checked the valve adjustment?

Has anyone checked the fuel pressure?

Has anyone checked the intake bellows for a large tear?

 

In a post above you said it has a cam in it. Is the PCM tuned for a stock motor or do you have a tune for any/all internal mods? I would also have to go with Injuneer's request to do a fuel pressure check.

 

He did a fuel pressure check, he said everything is normal, the pcm was also tuned for the cam, and the new one is also....The bolt broken is a head bolt, causing it to have a slight peck from the exhaust leak, but I haven't checked the intake bellows for a tear.....How exactly would you fix that? Buy a new Intake?

 

It's the rubber piece going from your intake to your airbox.