LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

LT1 Problem

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Old Sep 2, 2009 | 10:18 PM
  #1  
henryz28's Avatar
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LT1 Problem

Hi, My 96 lt1 hot cam car is running like crap. It has a lot of lope at idle and runs rough with the motor shaking. Then at wot the car will stutter bad. I do have an O2 sensor in the passenger side header that I think is damaged; from me jacking the motor up. But I thought the O2'S don't work at WOT. I did just change my opti. Before I did my opti I was having a ping at the top end but no miss, now with the new opti I have a miss but no ping. I also changed the wires and plugs when I noticed the miss but no luck. I am thinking it's the opti or that O2 that I think may be damaged; but I am leaning more towards the opti. What else could cause this. The Icm and coil were also tested.

Last edited by henryz28; Sep 2, 2009 at 10:20 PM.
Old Sep 2, 2009 | 10:59 PM
  #2  
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It's possible the opti is not on right. Happend during my cam install and it would barely run.
Old Sep 2, 2009 | 11:30 PM
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I think the opti is on correct. It runs strong but it has a shaking idle and a high rpm miss. I have installed the opti incorrectly and the car really runs like crap; like you said it barely runs. The car has good power and seems to run good down the highway at 70mph. But It has a miss when I am in overdrive at 45mph that I can barely notice. At idle it is rough shaking and sometimes bucking; then at WOT it seems to run strong until it gets high in the rpm range then it stutters. The opti is a Autozone opti.
Old Sep 3, 2009 | 01:26 PM
  #4  
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Have you at least put a mail order tune in it after the cam swap?
Old Sep 3, 2009 | 03:23 PM
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it ran fine until the opti swap? did you use your obd2 pcm and have egr and whatever else tuned out of it? i have the same setup as you (lt4kit,hotcam,headers)except mine is a manual trans. i went with an obd1 conversion and if i plug my untuned obd2 pcm in it runs terrible. either pcm you have should be scanned for trouble codes. obd2 is fairly intolerant of misfire and should flag you a code or 8. if you do have obd2 onboard the better scan tools will allow you to see exactly what cylinders the misfire is happening.
Old Sep 3, 2009 | 05:17 PM
  #6  
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The car has a MADZ28 tune. It is a 1996 obd2 car. I have a scanner but it shows no miss fires. I think it will no longer read the miss fire because I installed a double chain and had ION tune out the crank shaft position sensor; I think that is the sensor that detects miss fires. There are no codes showing as of now.
Old Sep 3, 2009 | 08:58 PM
  #7  
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I think I am going to trade my opti in at auto zone for another one. If that dose not work I am going to have a retune, have the crank shaft positioning sensor activated and throw in a stock chain set. Then I should be able to see what cylinders are miss firing with my scanner.
Old Sep 3, 2009 | 09:14 PM
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What kind of vacuum are you pulling at idle? It should be around 15-16 inches. If you are not pulling that much then you must have bad rocker adjustment or some kind of intake leak.

Here is a video of my CC503 LT1 pulling a vacuum reading(last half of vid).
http://www.ace1252.com/images/CC503_...ant_tester.WMV

I'm OBD II also....my misfire code is disabled too.

Last edited by ACE1252; Sep 3, 2009 at 09:16 PM.
Old Sep 4, 2009 | 01:18 AM
  #9  
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Originally Posted by ACE1252
What kind of vacuum are you pulling at idle? It should be around 15-16 inches. If you are not pulling that much then you must have bad rocker adjustment or some kind of intake leak.

Here is a video of my CC503 LT1 pulling a vacuum reading(last half of vid).
http://www.ace1252.com/images/CC503_...ant_tester.WMV

I'm OBD II also....my misfire code is disabled too.
I am going to try that tomorrow. Where should hook the vacuum gauge up at; can I unhook the fuel pressure regulator line and hook the gauge up there? Thanks
Old Sep 4, 2009 | 05:27 PM
  #10  
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Ok I tested the vacuum and its between 14-15 inches. I pulled the opti out and found that my rotor screws were loose; one was totally out, and the other was really loose. I think that was my miss. Should I replace the cap and rotor or just loctite the rotor screws back in. The cap and rotor dose not seem to be damaged at all.
Old Sep 5, 2009 | 08:33 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by henryz28
Ok I tested the vacuum and its between 14-15 inches. I pulled the opti out and found that my rotor screws were loose; one was totally out, and the other was really loose. I think that was my miss. Should I replace the cap and rotor or just loctite the rotor screws back in. The cap and rotor dose not seem to be damaged at all.
Cool deal. I hope that is the problem.

For vacuum testing, I pull the vacuum source off the fuel pressure regulator and use that tube(sorry late on the reply).

I don't have any experience messing with anything but a new opti. However, I think others have used loctite with good results.

Last edited by ACE1252; Sep 5, 2009 at 09:14 AM.
Old Sep 6, 2009 | 10:59 PM
  #12  
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I got every thing back together and thank god the car finally runs good except for a slight rough Idle. But I think the idle is normal for a hot cam in an auto car with 3:42 gears and stock stall. Thanks ACE I was thinking valve adjustment or opti for the high rpm miss and once I tested the vacuum I knew it had to be the darn opti.
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