wtf man, get the air dam on! that solves your problem right there.

 

ok the air dam is on, and she is still getting hot! wtf. Would it do this because there is no exhaust? I have not put pipes on yet because Im tryin to get her 100% engine wise.

 

Getting hot moving or not moving? The air dam only works when you are moving.

 

not moving. I let her idle for bout 10 min she gets from 180-190, then I press the gas down a lil bit to see what shes going to do. at first she drops down bout 5-6 degrees for a while then she will start to climb degrees on me.

 

Wow... My camarp idles at 160 degrees and when I get on it, it stays at 160 degrees.

I have a cold thermostat and also programmed to where my fans kick on if it goes to 165 degrees.

Try getting your anti-freeze and coolant checked. It may appear being full but if it's full and it tests as being unsafe then you only have a coolant resavor full of nothing.

I've seen many cars that over heat and burn oil excessively and most of the time it all comes down to the coolant and anti-freeze being unsafe. Try flushing the fluid as stated before.

 

What do you mean by "unsafe"?

 

.....Burning oil because the coolant isnt safe....??????? wtf dude.


Sounds like you may have a bad water pump or air in the system....

 

she still gets hot, but not like she was when I was accelerating without air dam on. I am doing a complete coolant flush and hope that solves everything. btw I still could not test drive anyway because the brakes are locked up on the damn car!

 

Are your fans coming on when the temp goes up? If not, your car will overheat just idling. As mentioned earlier, the air dam should have no effect if you aren't driving the car.

 

That's normal.

 

yes fans are coming on. i have flushed the system today, i flushed the radiator and took off the thermostat housing and thermostat and flushed it through the water pump also. I did see rust coming out the system, so I flushed it till I seen the clear water from the hose pipe and stoped and let it drain completely for like 15 min. put coolant through the waterpump till it almost filled up and put everything back and added coolant in radiator. Shes showing better results idles up to 190 and when I get on the gas(In park) she does not climb degrees as much as she was.

hey is anyone using the air housing box off the old camaros that goes from the throttle body and splits up into 2 chambers that runs to the front of car for air? Would this be better for air circulation? I am just running a K&N filter to the elbow of that connects to throttle body.

 

You want a cold air intake made for a 4th Gen LT1. Picks up the air outside the engine compartment in the driver's front fender. Several different ones available, often used for low $$$. Look for SLP, K&N FIPK, Moroso, Callaway, LPE, etc. Right now with the filter on the intake elbow, your pulling in the hot air coming off the back of the radiator.

 

Oooops.... cancel that.... appears from your screen name you have an LT1 in a 3rd Gen.

Why not add a "signature" with basic info about your car, so people can answer your questions accurately, without guessing? Makes it easier for everyone to help you.

 

Unsafe as in chemicals or rust inhibitors are broken down, there for they cannot cool or head up the motor when needed.

Trust me, I see this ATLEAST once a day.

A car comes into my work and they customer always "I keep smelling burnt oil" and I take a look at everything and everything seems to be alright except his/her anti-freeze and colant.

So we flush it all out and watch it run and nothing seems to go wrong and the oil stops burning and they're back on the road.

I mean, it's worth a shot. What could it hurt? Twenty bucks in your wallet at the most lol.

 

Yes... if a car has been run for an extended period of time with "worn out" coolant, its conceivable that the corrosion in the system could reduce heat transfer. But simply having "chemicals (mmm.... what chemicals, specifically?) or rust inhibitors are broken down" is not going to cause the engine to burn oil. In the extreme case of no cooling, it will cause a head gasket to fail, not burn oil.