This thread is

 

thanks i only did it for 4 years lol i'm glad to know i learned a thing or two

i've never seen any arp studs back out ... if they are installed right( read the instructions it says install hand tight then torque to XX ft lbs with moly lube or motor oil and i reccomend moly lube)

 

I have built alot of dirt track motors over the years and thought I would through my 2 cents in as well.

Squaring the deck- Not needed for your normal rebuild. Once you start getting up to about 475 to 500 horses, it becomes more important that all the cylinders are at the same level.

Torque Plates - Again not really imortant for your grocery getter but as you start getting to the higher horse power levels it becomes more important.

4 Bolts - 2 bolt blocks should be good to about 425 to 450 horse power at less than 6K RPM. Standard 4 bolt blocks should be good to about 550 to 600 horses. Anything above that and there is no way I would use anything other than a splayed 4 bolt with arp studs n bolts.

O-Ringing - This maybe old school but it still has its place. Vehicles that are running agressive amounts of boost are normally still o-ringed. Won't find many vehicles running 30 plus pounds of boost that aren't o-ringed in my experience. My machinist builds alot of truck and tractor pull motors and deals with some insane boost levels.

 

cool, i had just heard some stuff. The guy who was telling me that is a buddy of mine who worked for a very reputable engine shop that builds off shore race motors, so there is no telling where he has seen this before.

 

Speaking of the oiling. I dropped the block off at shop 4 today and he was talking about doing some "oiling tricks" since it's going to be a solid roller motor. I was in a hurry to get to work but he spoke about removing a plug near the oil filter area and running a line to the front of the block fot better oiling. He also mentioned about the oil restrictors and enlarging/cleaning up the oil drain back. He also touched on putting screens in the oil drainback incase a lifter broke and debris wouldn't enter the oil pan.

I'm currently looking at running the Milodon high pressure pump and pickup with the 30909 Milodon 6 quart pan. I'm not sure if the extra 10psi you speak of would be beneficial with a SR setup.

As far as decking, after speaking with a friend of mine in Texas, he explained a zero deck and Felpro 1074 head gaskets [.040] would yeild my desired dynamic and static compression ratio. I'd have to look up my long work, but I think that setup would give me 12.5x static and 8.6x dynamic with a given solid roller grind.

Sounds like most guys are doing fine with ARP head bolts, so I'll stick with those.

Pricewise I am currently looking at...

Splayed 4 bolt Mains - $550
Bore and Hone w/TQ plate - $150
Square Deck - $200
Hot Tank/Mangaflux - $60
Cam Bearings/Freeze Plugs - $50
Total: $1010

If you added...
Clearancing - $75
Assembly - $200-$300 (depending on how far they assemble)
Balance - $200
Total: $1585

So that total isn't far off from what you quoted with all the work added in. I'm sure there are a few small things I will get done or checked that will add a little more to the total.

I appreciate the posts stockssn2o

I'll be calling the shop tomorrow and having him take note of the passenger side dipstick.

Good points about the machinist having a bad day or missing a few details. Granted it is there job, but we are all human.

I will do the assembly with a buddy or two that have done some pretty decent builds before [perhaps a certain Brut Funny Car] and we will be blueprinting the motor as well. Never hurts to have a second set of eyes checking everything over.

**Forgot to mention, when he was looking over the block he made a comment about the webbing on the passenger side of the block looked thin. I couldn't help but agree because it did. But after speaking with the shop he farms the splay cap work out to, they said they've done them before and knew about the webbing.

-Dustin-

 

i've never seen that one... but maybe he knows something i don't... the tricks i was talking about are very simple and work well... 1. enlarging and cleaning up the oil drains 2. chamfering the oil filter hole and 3. enlarging and smoothing out the oil inlet on the rear main cap under the oil pump
the screens are a good idea

[I'm currently looking at running the Milodon high pressure pump and pickup with the 30909 Milodon 6 quart pan. I'm not sure if the extra 10psi you speak of would be beneficial with a SR setup..[/QUOTE]

Look into a kevco 7 qt pan they are cheap and work great and they come with a pickup ... i have one on my engine.... i used a meling select high volume pump in mine ...if your gonna drag race or have solid motor mounts you need a select pump
heres a picture...


not a problem
here some pix of my build...just because... its a shame i didn't even get it tuned yet and i'm pulling it back out to put heads and an intake on it ... its got 500 miles on it lol o yea once i looked at my pictures i thought of something else you might wanna do... get your machine shop to cut a keyway in your balancer hub.... its cheap insurance...

 

 

I had forgot how much research I did before I had my engine put together, this brings it all back, that was a ton of research.

 

There is a lot of good info in this thread. But I think who said if you are putting out more than 350 at the tires you need splayed caps is overkill but that is just my. 02

 

stockssn2o, is this the pan you used?
http://www.kevkoracing.com/images/1070_full.gif

 

thats it... i called them and told them what i needed ... it was a shelf stock part... when you order it just make sure you tell him its a 1 piece pan and tell him if you want it zinc or painted black... nice pan for the price

 

Some good info here. Tagging this.

 

Well after many months and a few setbacks the machine work is done. I've been blueprinting the motor over the last few days and I'll be updating this thread with additional information over the next week or so.

-Dustin-