Getting right to the point, bottom line, how much money will it take to get a bone stock LT1 M6 to run a 10.99 all motor?

$7,000? $8,000? $9,000? More?

Or, is 10s N/A really out of line for anyone not wanting to devote their life to the pursuit of LT1 drag racing? I know that 10s all motor can be done with an LS1 without donating a body part, but what about an LT1?

Anyone want to take the time to do a roadmap with a price breakdown? No? I thought not.

Would $3,000 get a guy deep into the 12s?

How much are we talking if a guy wanted long tube headers, a big cam and heads done right? Where would you be then?

 

Only a few have gone where you want to go.

Dont even want to think about cash, BIG time ported heads, built bottom end, gears, full suspension and a solid roller cam is your ticket.

 

Well, then that's not where I want to go. Heads, cam, and headers are enough for me if 10s N/A are that hard to break into.

I can't beleive it is that hard to get an LT1 into the 10s where I have seen LS1s get there with only bolt-ons and a cam.

 

Things you will probably need....

GOOD DRIVER!!!!
great heads/cam package (I think the le3 package or one of phil's top packages is capable of it)
Lots of suspension!!!!
Sticky tires
weight reduction
rear end
All the supporting bolt ons
GREAT tuning
I think it can be done on stock bottem end, but you might just want a built bottom end for realiability since you'll be spinning the motor so high.


The setup should be setup perfectly, you want to be crossing traps just before redline, using all your powerband, etc. You will also have to get the suspension dialed in, and will need at least a 1.5x 60ft.

I'm hoping by late spring to hit a 10.99 n/a with a 383 le2 package but in an automatic. My raceweight will probably have to be low through to achieve this goal.

Tim on here hit a 10.9x with a solid roller 355 and stock casting heads.

 

I think the M6 is what is really gonna make you spend the money for that goal. Keep in mind that the fastest N/A M6 4th gen was like a 10.59 up until this summer, and it was an LS1 car. It then progressed into the mid 10.40's by romanss, and then into the 10.30's by the original record holder. Both cars are LS1's, and let me tell you, Roman's car is by no means a head/cam car. It is a very well thought out setup and uses some of the best parts out there. If you wanted to go to a TH-350 or a TH-400, it would make your goals significantly easier to obtain, but still not a piece of cake.

 

A damn built bottom end a heck of a driver
gears
all the bolt ons
a near perfect tune and
alot of THe GO GO JUICE

NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS



LOL


Brake

 

Running all motor 10's period in a full weight street car is gonna put a localized pain in the left hip pocket. LS1, LT1, mustang doesnt matter. BTW those LS1's that easily reach the 10's with heads and cam, no, my bet would be none or VERY few are full weight daily driven, most are automatics and only one to my knowledge has done it with a cam only, and his car is gutted. BTW a cam only LT1 has gone 11.40's but it ain't no daily driver. SO to answer your question $20 g's+ to go reliable 10's on motor, from the flywheel back gonna cost ya $4000.


David

 

Yeah it can be done with heads and cam, but you will have to spin it over 6500 to do it so the bottom end reliability comes into play.

But the biggest mod would be the car , as a few have alreay sugested.

At least you'll need to remove about 3 to 500 pounds from the car, springs and shocks geared to drag racing, a strong rear, adjustable suspension (T/A,boxed lowers etc.) and some sticky sticky slicks. Heck with intake, exhaust and the car mods you could reach pretty well into the 12s, then add 150 hp from the motor and there you are.

 

easily....you could run basic bolt-on's and nitrous for probably $2,000 and be in the 12's.

 

it can be done....but its by no means cheap and 3 grand will almost buy you the suspension/rear end needed to make an assalt on the 10s in a manual....thats not counting the cage and labor if you have someone put it all in for you. If you stay small cubes and want to stick to stock castings to keep your investment down...good luck..its a long hard road. Your car will need to be lightened big time...because the rear end/cage/suspension peices will all increase the weight of the car...so you will be fighting to actually show a loss on the scales. Also...once you get the HP then you will be fighting the "weakest link" issues. Basically when you have hoursepower..and start to hook it..stuff will start breaking from the back of the motor all the way to the snout of that brand new rear end. Go to my web site listed in sig if you want to see what I have. I beleive what is listed is what I've finally ended up with...since I've redone my suspension 3 times in the search for a hard hooking car....many gear changes to get the exact right gear...gone through several internal t-56 parts..etc. etc..etc. And the small tweeks aren't there...everything that added up to make 10s I will just let you fight that road yourself..its fun..but can be frustrating.

As for ls1s making it to the 10s easy..no...and expecially in a 6 speed. Jason99TA...the current record holder is a friend of mine. That car is pure race car..lightenend..serious suspension and a very serious motor. Even when he wents 10s on cam only that bottom end was hand assembled..etc. etc. etc. Plus Jason being one of the best sticks I've ever seen and having a world class track that flat hooks doesn't hurt anything.

Good luck in your quest....My sugestion unless you want to turn your car into a track car. Get a good heads cam setup..put a rear end and some suspension under it...and be happy with high 11s on motor..maybe try to spray it to the 10s..but even that won't be easy.

 

Ask LJ Stevens how much it takes to get into the deep 10's. http://www.noid.org/~lj/

 

10's weren't my goal with the LT1 if it meant selling my soul to do it, I was just wondering if throwing money at it would eventually get you there. Dosen't look like it.

I didn't say anything about the car being a daily driver, but I'm glad most of you read that between the lines, because it's what I was thinking.

"Be happy with high to mid 11's all motor in a daily driver." Okay, sounds good. Maybe I'll get my shop to build me another 383 short block. Now to find an LT1 bare block for super cheap. ...Maybe.