Bolting on a new set of Speed Engineering stainless steel long tube headers this past week but I'm running into an issue on the passenger side. My driver side bolted up perfectly the first time and fits like a glove. After bolting on the driver, I attempted to mount the passenger but ran into clearance issues on the k member and the rear firewall (pictures below). I figured my engine mounts had likely begun to sag and were causing the issue. After removing and replacing both engine mounts with rubber replacements, it is clear the old passenger mount was beginning to sag (picture below). After replacing both mounts, the header is still contacting in multiple areas. I cannot actually get it close enough to bolt it on properly, picture below to show how close I can get it. My transmission mount is polyurethane and is in good shape, what other issues could cause this clearance? Is it possible to install any of the engine mounts incorrectly? I understand it is not uncommon to have to "clearance" a few areas, but I believe most can usually bolt the header on. Any ideas as to how to resolve this would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks once again, Grant

 

How close to installed is the header in that picture? If it is close, I would mark the area while you have it mocked up, then heat it up and dent the section so it clears. I would have worried about this way back when, but engine masters did a whole shoot on this and proved it does not impact power, and in some causes, caused a gain.

 

There is at least a good half or maybe even three quarters of an inch needed to mount it. I'm not worried about a small loss of power, but I've held off on denting the header while talking with Speed Engineering. How well would a propane torch and hammer do the trick? Or is oxyacetylene usually the better bet for stainless steel?

Thanks, Grant

 

Just a thought, maybe not relevant. The typical poly trans mount is taller than the factory mount, particularly the Energy Suspension mount with the “load plate”. . Could that possibly contribute to the problem?

If this makes any sense at all, try loosening the trans cross-member to drop it and see if that helps.

http://shbox.com/1/trans_mount.jpg

 

I do in-fact have the energy suspension mount with the load plate, I'll attempt to drop it a bit and see if that alleviates the issue at all. Thank you for the recommendation

 

Unfortunately it had zero effect on header clearance, however I did take the opportunity to remove the load plate that everyone attributes to increased vibration. I disconnected the brace/trans mount and then proceeded to move the transmission both up and down several inches while checking for increased clearance, no dice unfortunately though. Great suggestion nonetheless

-Grant

 

I would think a propane torch with time and a heavy hammer would do it. Make sure you are able to put in in a position where you have solid support behind the tube so you get solid impacts from your hits.
Previous to engine masters, I would have also been worried about performance from denting the headers, but they beat the crap out of headers and it made zero difference. You could also take the opportunity to see if there are any changed around the primaries near the plugs that would make changing plugs easier. I have most frequently seen heating, then hitting the round side of an impact socket for clearance.

 

Lots of heat and hammering later, the header is finally in without any contact. I'll include pictures below of what it took in order to make the header fit. The passenger engine mount bracket caused the most difficulty, I also had to add some extra clearance for the ac line that lies below the header on cylinder number 2. There is a few papers width between the k member, just enough to not touch. It's not pretty but it will do the job.

Thank you to all

 

That doesn't look terrible, Im glad you wer able to get it to fit.

 

Glad you were able to finally install the headers.

Are there headers available that you do not need to beat on in order to install. I am looking for headers but unable to alter them up to install.

You have provided some very good photos of the problem areas and clear description.

 

There is a lot more to consider versus it fits or doesn't fit.

Question: Where do after market parts fit? Answer: In the box they came in.

I have had 3 sets of headers on my car: Jethot and Kooks long tubes and Edlebrock shorties. Both long tubes had fitment issues in different places. The Jethot did not clear the steering knuckle, which had to be modified. They also had a small issue when I swapped in the BMR kmember. The Kooks fit better, but required removal of the oil cooler and use of a smaller oil filter. Any modifications, year of car, as well as things like motor mounts can impact header fitment. The shorties made everything worse in the engine bay, made plugs and wires a nightmare, and didn't really gain much.

 

Wow, I had no idea that installing headers is this much of a challenge, as far as fitment goes! Why is it that they don't line up and fit correct right out of the box???? If the manufacturers know that they need to be clearanced in certain spots, why aren't they already formed that way? This must be frustrating to deal with. Especially having to take a hammer to something you just spent good money on.

 

The amount of work needed seems to vary quite a bit from install to install. Some headers fit without issue, while others need to have extra clearance in several spots. I should point out that these headers were a fraction of the cost when compared to the Kooks set (considered to be the best quality/fitment). I was quite hesitant about taking a hammer to it as well, but I am glad it's over and they fit now. My car may have just had odd tolerances when compared to whatever car the header was designed with, it's anyone's guess really. Hopefully, this thread will allow others to make the best decision about what header they go with and how to diagnose and attack the issues they encounter.

 

I have read about plenty of people that had no issues with Speed Engineering. The challenge is that there is so much possibility of where things are in the car, they can only so so much.

 

Well this brings me to my next question. What if the headers that are being installed, are ceramic coated? Does clearancing them by striking the tubes with a hammer cause the ceramic coating to chip or crack or flake off?