LT1 Engine Markings?
#1
LT1 Engine Markings?
My LT1 block has 327 marked on each side of the engine block.
Right under the 2 there is a single digit "5".
Anyone know what that would mean?
Are these blocks used for 327 and and bored for 350 applications Also?
Right under the 2 there is a single digit "5".
Anyone know what that would mean?
Are these blocks used for 327 and and bored for 350 applications Also?
#3
Tech.
Also youre reading into it a little too much. 327 Doesnt have a single thing to do with the displacement, LT1s just got lucky enough to have that casted into them. An LT1 block is only an LT1 block, not SBC so (dont read into that too much either, since its identical except for a few features) they were never a 327 and never will be a 327 since they are out of production (Thanks GM!!)
Also youre reading into it a little too much. 327 Doesnt have a single thing to do with the displacement, LT1s just got lucky enough to have that casted into them. An LT1 block is only an LT1 block, not SBC so (dont read into that too much either, since its identical except for a few features) they were never a 327 and never will be a 327 since they are out of production (Thanks GM!!)
#4
thx. So what does the 327 mean?
How is your SPEC ceramic clutch in daily driving?
Chatter?
What about dropping the clutch at high RPM?
I'm trying to decide on whether I should stay with my Stage III SPEC and go with a new carbon or ceramic disk?
My current Kelvar Stage III 4 pad is done after only 12k miles!
How is your SPEC ceramic clutch in daily driving?
Chatter?
What about dropping the clutch at high RPM?
I'm trying to decide on whether I should stay with my Stage III SPEC and go with a new carbon or ceramic disk?
My current Kelvar Stage III 4 pad is done after only 12k miles!
#5
Just a casting number, a buddies 4bolt SBC block is sitting in my garage and says I believe 520 or something like that on it. As long as it says 5.7 up by the intake gasket rail youre good to go, I believe every 86up roller block 350 says 5.7 and a full 8digit part number by the intake gasket rail.
Stage 3 ceramic was only in for about 1000 miles before engine took a crap, loved it though. Went through the same problem with the kevlar, 15k max on it. obvioulsly the reason they dont make them anymore. I plan to wear out the stage 3 ceramic disk then pick up a stage 4 ceramic disk, same exact thing but no hub or springs in the middle, and i hear it drives identical to the 3.
Stage 3 ceramic was only in for about 1000 miles before engine took a crap, loved it though. Went through the same problem with the kevlar, 15k max on it. obvioulsly the reason they dont make them anymore. I plan to wear out the stage 3 ceramic disk then pick up a stage 4 ceramic disk, same exact thing but no hub or springs in the middle, and i hear it drives identical to the 3.
#6
Oh great, a person with stage III Kevlar experience and moved to the ceramic disc.
Can you describe the differences with the ceramic vs your old Kevlar in terms of:
Chatter in stop/go traffic?
Holding pressure at the drag strip?
Did you consider the carbon disk?
And when you noticed the Kevlar setup wearing out, what symptoms did you get? My symptoms were pedal engament point was getting closer to the end of the pedal resting position, after a few WOT passes the clutch was making weird grinding/rubbing noises in stop and go traffic, with some slipping at WOT.
I'm just trying to see if you had the same things happen. If not I will have to look into maybe other possible causes for the noises.
i have the engine and flywheel off and all except the clutch disk pads look good to a quick glance.
Can you describe the differences with the ceramic vs your old Kevlar in terms of:
Chatter in stop/go traffic?
Holding pressure at the drag strip?
Did you consider the carbon disk?
And when you noticed the Kevlar setup wearing out, what symptoms did you get? My symptoms were pedal engament point was getting closer to the end of the pedal resting position, after a few WOT passes the clutch was making weird grinding/rubbing noises in stop and go traffic, with some slipping at WOT.
I'm just trying to see if you had the same things happen. If not I will have to look into maybe other possible causes for the noises.
i have the engine and flywheel off and all except the clutch disk pads look good to a quick glance.
#7
Well, it all happened in a matter of one launch by a dumbass buddy driving my car trying to beat my gtech time. He did..but slipped off the clutch from 6grand, and that was all she wrote. Like I said, i only had the ceramic in for 1000 miles or so, no passes on it, but it felt basically identical to the kevlar, just gripped harder, it actually seemed like it maybe drove better too. the kevlar would tend to heat up and chatter if you tried to slip it too much.
If you replace the disk look into that stage 4 disk. the only problems i hear of Specs having is the springs blowing out, and you cure that problem with that disk.
If you replace the disk look into that stage 4 disk. the only problems i hear of Specs having is the springs blowing out, and you cure that problem with that disk.
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