Any casting numbers or anything I can look for.

I somehow dont have an LT1 Crank when I thought I did. Dont know if the wrong crank was shipped to me or if my machine shop screwed it up. I know it didnt come out of an LT1 b/c there is a key in the front keyway so there is no way the hub can go on.

Anyway to ID a factory LT1 Crank?

 

The LT1 crank part # is 14088526. The fact that there is a key in it doesn't mean its not an LT1 crank. All LT1 cranks have a keyway cut in them. GM just never bothered to put a matching keyway in the hub, so there's no key.... just a keyway in the crank. But someone may have been running a keyed hub on the damper. Just remove the key from the keyway.

 

The person I got it from was not running a keyed hub and it was supposedly right out of their car, although it had been polished...

Is that part number stamped on the crank someplace? The crank is at my machine shop right now so I dont have it.

I know I could take the key out and use the crank, but Im just nervous about using an unknown crank. Im shooting for a pretty high HP number with forced induction. It just seems that people have had ok luck reusing their stock LT1 cranks. I dont know if other cast GM cranks will hold up the same way.

 

you should be fine. especially if you balance the whole rotating assym.

 

If I was "...shooting for a pretty high HP number with forced induction.", I would not use a crank of unknown origin, but that's just me.

 

My plans are 15 PSI which hopefully will take me to 550 HP. I think that is doable on a stock LT1 crank.

I dont care for the idea of using just some random crank. How long have they been making small blocks? This crank could be from the 60s or older for all I know.

 

mic it out, magnaflux it and then get the all balanced and its good.

but if it were me and i was spending the coin on a forced induction setup id do it right.