Capriceforever

hi all i come from the GMforums and they told me you guys might know something about 396 LT1?
we were mostly talking about making a 400 LT1 but i soon came to my sense's and realized that would be way to much money
but is it possible to make a 396 LT1 out of a normal 350 LT1 block ? and if so would it be worth the money spending on it instead of a 383 LT1?

LT1derful

Unfortunately, I'm not going to be the plethora of information you desire. But, I do know that 396ci is possible from the LT1 block.

As far as cost vs performance compared to the 383, I can't help there. I decided against a 383, and instead I'm going to do a "QUALITY" 355 build.

Friend of mine has a built 355 in his LT1, and he's DEEP in the 10s. So, I think it all depends on the amount of money, time, and quality parts you invest in the motor you build. IMO, a good solid 355 can hang with your average 383.

I've got another friend that's running a 434 in his 95 Z28...it's UNGODLY. That is the best possible way I can explain that motor/car...UNGODLY!

DJ

Capriceforever

UNGODLY i bet. well the thing is i have around 4,000 some odd pound Caprice so i might need more than a 355 to get me in the tens
i was also thinking of a 454 engine but it would not pass emissions now that got some power
thats why i have to stick to small block engines

needacar

caprice forever, where in gaithersburg are you located? i also live in gaithersburg and work at criswell chevrolet and your like the same age as me. let me know.

danny hollis

LT1derful

LOL...yea, should have looked at your name. You're right, a 355 might not push you into the 10s...add some SPRAY, LOL.

It's a little late tonight, but I'm sure some more knowlegable members will post some good info for you.

I'll watch this as well to see how the 396 compares to the 383...I just like the sound of that 396...mmmmmm.

DJ

95CamaroZ-28

A 396 consists of a 3.875" stroke along with a 4.03" bore. There are quite a few guys on the board with 396s. What are you wanting to do with the car? Are you wanting to keep in on the street, or make it a track car? Are you wanting to be N/A or do you plan on having a power adder? Depends on what you're wanting to do and wanting to spend as to if the 383 or 396 would be better.

Capriceforever

yo i work right across form Criswell a week ago i just bought a buick frame brace from you guys
i know a guy that works there OMG i cant reamember the name oh i suck at remembering names
wait do you know a guy that works a baskin robbins?
well i want to keep it street and get it around the low 12's as for the drivetrain i will be getting a 8.5 rearend soon with some 3.42 gears and posi and if 3.42 doesn't work for me i will get 3.73 in the rearend

Lawrence

BackNBlack

From what I have seen here in the past few months it really boils down to cubic dollars. The 396 is considerably more (twice as much) than a cast crank 383 build. The best bang for the buck seems to be the scat cast crank, 6" eagle or scat rods, and SRP forged pistons version of the 383. I've seen that package for as low as 650-700 on the Net. The 396 is only available forged and runs easily in the $2000 range for crank rods and pistons. The performance numbers do not seem quite worth the double in price, unless you are doing a ***** out race car. A 383 with a Comp 305 or XE cam, ported and polished heads and the complimenting mods (exhaust, gears, converter, etc.) along with a little nitrous should make that whale move pretty well.

Capriceforever

well 80's b-bodies way less than 91-96 whales as we sqaure bodies call them about 400 pounds or so

Abdullah

capriceforever, you can make 401ci LT1 out of 350 LT1 block using 3.875" crank and 4.060" bore and the cost to do 401, 396 or 383 is very close if you are using the same brand parts (401 and 396 has the same 3.875" stroke crank). if it was me i would go with more cubes but i prefer 4.030" bore for the 396 over 401 which has 4.060" bore for reliability issues. about myself i will go with a supercharged 396.

BlackDog

Check out Nu-Tek they have good info on what your trying to do.

http://www.nu-tekmotorsports.com/

dabear95

If it is within your budget I would defiantly build a 396, if not I would build a 383 before a 350/355. The reason being is the weight of your car. You can use all the low end torque and area under the curve that you can get...


Jason

needacar

you work at baskin robbins?

also by the way, i work at KIA i know i know they suck but hey GM discount parts. score, im in the middle of selling my buick GN to pay for the 94 purple pearl metallic M6 z28 that i should be getting quite soon. im so excited. let me know, also if you work in einstein bagels, then you know who i am cause i went in there everyday for like a month, and if you do work there you gotta give me discounts.

let me know
danny hollis

bulldoguav

Yeah, Nu-tek rocks. I emailed them the other day, and I got a price list back. A fully-prepped 383 (save for heads and intake) would run me $5k. Of course, my 383 will be built for a blower and juice.

I think I'm just going to have them prep the block and I'll put everything together myself.

rskrause

Assuming you are buying a new rotating assembly anyway, a 396 is the way to go. If you want to reuse your stock rods, or get a cast vs. forged crank (there are no cast 3.875" cranks AFAIK) then a 383 might be the better choice. But if were doing an new LT1 buildup, I'd go 396.

Rich Krause