So the rodes will have to be milled? Will the block need to be milled as well?

 

Just a couple of things.

First, don't jump to the conclusion that 40# injectors is what you'll need. Call or email with your PCM re-programmer and follow his recommendation.

He'll want to know all the specifics of your engine - head flow, camshaft, compression ratio, etc. Based on what you'll be running, he'll know which injector would suit your engine best.

I recommend Bryan at PCMFORLESS.COM for the injector size recommendation. I've used PCMFORLESS for years to program my ECM/PCM, for both the Mini-Rammed 415 CID in my 86, the LT1 in my 96 Vette and the 388 LT1 stroker I'm now building.

Clearancing the block is not difficult at all. Most time the interference will be at the very bottom of the cylinder bores and a high speed grinder and a little time is all it takes to take of it.

Other times, the piston skirt will hit the camshaft. You can't grind on the PISTON, so you may be able to grind the block in the area of interference. A small base circle camshaft will most often solve that problem too.

If you're not up to doing the required grinding, most reputable machine shops will do it for you at a relatively low cost. Around $100 or so.

At the rear of the crankshaft is a seal that prevents the oil that's inside the engine to splash out onto the chasis/ground; hence the name "seal". It "seals" in the oil.

Up to about 1986 SBs use to use a two piece seal; One of the two pieces was installed in the rear main cap and the other half in the block. Over time GM determined that type arrangement was prone to leaking, so GM changed the block, crankshaft, oil pan and rear main seal to a one piece unit. I believe te flexplate/flywheel was also changed to fit the one-piece rear main seal-type engines.

Hope this helps.

Jake

 

you'll either have to buy 'fit' rods for your application, or you'll have to buy a small base circle cam. both are custom parts, and it's cheaper and easier to get the cam.

when you order your cam, just get small base circle...and leave it at that.

there are some companies out there who will sell you a one-off set of rods, but they are a custom setup, like the cam. but they're more expensive. it's only another hundred to the cam, but it's like 400 for the rods to be fit...so, get the small base circle camshaft.

the block will have to be clearanced for the longer crank stroke, the counter weights will swing longer and hit the block. to fix this, clearance the block. your machinist can do this as well for a small charge if you give him your crank and bearings/caps.

 

I just E-mailed comp cam to see what they recommend. Hope it is not to expensive

 

Im still waiting on comp cam to see what they quote me. If its over $360 im going to buy a regular sized cam and have the rods milled. I got off the phone with the machine shop today. they quoted me 360 to clearance every thing and bore n hone. I think its a good deal. And im still waiting on elliots e-mail about the heads. He is a real hard guy to get a hold of. Probobly really buisy

 

Since you're having a bore job, that means new pistons too. So everything will need to be re-balanced. Did he include that cost too?

If the shop does "clearance" the rods, he should do that before the re-balance.

I've ordered several small base circle cams from Comp over the years and don't recall ever having to pay for the small base circle option. The last one I ordered was for a 434 I was building for a friend and I specifically recall there was no additional charge for the small base circle. That was several years ago though, so things may have changed.

Jake

 

it's possible, dont remember, but you'll still have to wait the extra time, unless someone canceled and order.

either way, it's worth it to keep from weakening the rods.

 

Get a .900/.950 base circle and stroker rods the ones with the cap screws instead of bolts. That will fix ya up.
Go here and look at their 4340 lightweight.
http://www.probeindustries.com/Con_Rods/rods.htm

 

Talk to elliott yesterday. He is going to custom grind my cam. The specs will be larger then the LE1 cam but have a smaller base circle. (same price)