LS1 + T56 into 93 TA Auto... Conversion
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LS1 + T56 into 93 TA Auto... Conversion
I just completed a LS1 + T56 swap into my 93 700r4 TA. I am going to include a short description of the work at the end.
It took me about three weeks due to all the little differences and doing the rewiring and working. Runs great and was a good car.
The car was just hit in the rear end and toatled and the conversion is now for sale at https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/sho...12#post5957712.
The wiring harness differences was the number one thing to address.
The only things you need for the wiring harness is:
A 98 Water temp sensor with analog output for the water temp gauge its a TPS type connector.
A C210 Connector to route the starter relay power and constant battery power to the ecm.
Extra 12 gauge purple wire for the starter wire. Extra white, pink, orange, dark green/white wire and I think thats it for wiring.
You will also need an OBDII connector for diagnostics.
There is one more ignition circuit on the LS1 that is not in the LT1. The circuit 239 in the 93 is for the opti but in the LS1 is for emissions dont remember if its air or what. Basically I rewired this 239 circuit from the 93 into 539 of the LS1 which is for heated o2's which was not available in the 93. 539 is also for other engine sensors you will need to replace fuse 7 I believe not positive with a 20 amp fuse instead of 10.
Also you will need to repin C220,230, and 100. 105 and 101 are not applicable but the extra wire I told you you needed is to lengthen some wires from the 100 connectors to go to the 200 series. All the connectors will interface with the car its just not pinned right.
The AC system functions the same and does not have be to messed with. The engine speed signal is a white wire that needs to be lengthened from 100 series into the 200 and also you need to wire the fuel realy into the 200's which needs to be lengthened from the 100's and so does the constant power wire which is an orange wire in 101 or 105 I believe this is a 16 gauge wire or 18 not the 12 or 14. The bigger orange wire in 105 G I beleive can be removed its for an air pump which I personally deleted. The smaller gauge orange wire needs to go into C210 constant power for ECM.
All the 5v reference signals can be removed and crusie control. Since cruise control and fuel system is pretty much a separate singal except for the fuel enable signal from the ecm and the fuel realy control. You will also need to turn vats off in the computer because the LS1 uses class 2 serial data and the 93 uses the serial data UART. The serial data UART does not need to be hooked up for the LS1 PCM to be happy and run.
Some other info can be found at http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/conver...questions.html were I covered some other wiring discrepancies.
As far as doing the swap mechanically.
The K members must be changed due to the different bolt patterns of the two motor mounts from LT1 to LS1 series, and the LT1 crossmember IS REQUIRED for the transmission!!!! The LS1 style will not work because there was a floor change between body style changes.
As far as building the LS1 k-member in the LT1 car. The ls1 rack and pinion must be used with the steering knuckle. The Lt1 column can be used and the LT1 brake lines must be used due to the LT1 ABS is in the car style continue to use your front suspension if you choose the LT1 springs are a little stiffer than the LS1's.
Once the LS1 is installed a new throttle cable will be needed since the throttle linkage is on opposite sides and the LS1 is a longer cable. Also you will need ls1 radiator hoses but the LT1's heater hoses will work just need to be cut. The Ls1 condensor will need to be used but the LT1 radiator can be retained.
In order to maintain the stock fuel system a 97-98 vette fuel rails or a 98 fbody fuel filter/regulator will have to be used. I used the filter/regulator and mounted it off my tower bolts. I went to Napa and had about an 18 inch quick disconnect nylon hose made for it. Directly plug.
If you have an aftermarket intake for the lt1 keep it, I cant think of the website but there is one out there for intakes that has silicon elbows that can be used to mount to a moroso and maybe a K&N intake. Some performance shops should have this too.
Also DO NOT FORGET to hook up the vacuum line off the back of the intake for vent control in the car. CANNOT be reached after installed. Also make sure the crank sensor under the starter on the passenger side is plugged in or it can be a major pain. The air pump mounted up front on the driver frame can be removed a big plastic flat cylinder thing you can't miss it. The crusie control will probably still function if you can mount the wire onto the throttle body It didnt look to hard to to but my button on my column didn't work and no replacements were any where so I didn't bother. The safties can also be wired in but that is another post
Ls1 pedals will need to be used if you are going to do an a4 to m6 swap. With the 2002 LS1 T56 set up the master is built on to the pedal and is an easy install with a 1 5/8's hole saw I believe and a drill for the two holes for the u bolt. The T56 simply bolts in with the LT1 crossmember, the remote master cylinder mounts up by the master booster on the two pins and then plug in your hydraulic line and wiring such as VSS and Reverse lockout (I didnt use skip shift). The same driveshaft can be used between the two drivetrains.
A hole will also have to be cut in the floor for the swap there is a divet in the trans tunnel where it should be cut keep your cuts about an inch in from the outer line at all times just use a angle grinder or sawzaw, and I used the 2002 center console which bolts directly in.
Pretty much the extent of my swap.
It took me about three weeks due to all the little differences and doing the rewiring and working. Runs great and was a good car.
The car was just hit in the rear end and toatled and the conversion is now for sale at https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/sho...12#post5957712.
The wiring harness differences was the number one thing to address.
The only things you need for the wiring harness is:
A 98 Water temp sensor with analog output for the water temp gauge its a TPS type connector.
A C210 Connector to route the starter relay power and constant battery power to the ecm.
Extra 12 gauge purple wire for the starter wire. Extra white, pink, orange, dark green/white wire and I think thats it for wiring.
You will also need an OBDII connector for diagnostics.
There is one more ignition circuit on the LS1 that is not in the LT1. The circuit 239 in the 93 is for the opti but in the LS1 is for emissions dont remember if its air or what. Basically I rewired this 239 circuit from the 93 into 539 of the LS1 which is for heated o2's which was not available in the 93. 539 is also for other engine sensors you will need to replace fuse 7 I believe not positive with a 20 amp fuse instead of 10.
Also you will need to repin C220,230, and 100. 105 and 101 are not applicable but the extra wire I told you you needed is to lengthen some wires from the 100 connectors to go to the 200 series. All the connectors will interface with the car its just not pinned right.
The AC system functions the same and does not have be to messed with. The engine speed signal is a white wire that needs to be lengthened from 100 series into the 200 and also you need to wire the fuel realy into the 200's which needs to be lengthened from the 100's and so does the constant power wire which is an orange wire in 101 or 105 I believe this is a 16 gauge wire or 18 not the 12 or 14. The bigger orange wire in 105 G I beleive can be removed its for an air pump which I personally deleted. The smaller gauge orange wire needs to go into C210 constant power for ECM.
All the 5v reference signals can be removed and crusie control. Since cruise control and fuel system is pretty much a separate singal except for the fuel enable signal from the ecm and the fuel realy control. You will also need to turn vats off in the computer because the LS1 uses class 2 serial data and the 93 uses the serial data UART. The serial data UART does not need to be hooked up for the LS1 PCM to be happy and run.
Some other info can be found at http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/conver...questions.html were I covered some other wiring discrepancies.
As far as doing the swap mechanically.
The K members must be changed due to the different bolt patterns of the two motor mounts from LT1 to LS1 series, and the LT1 crossmember IS REQUIRED for the transmission!!!! The LS1 style will not work because there was a floor change between body style changes.
As far as building the LS1 k-member in the LT1 car. The ls1 rack and pinion must be used with the steering knuckle. The Lt1 column can be used and the LT1 brake lines must be used due to the LT1 ABS is in the car style continue to use your front suspension if you choose the LT1 springs are a little stiffer than the LS1's.
Once the LS1 is installed a new throttle cable will be needed since the throttle linkage is on opposite sides and the LS1 is a longer cable. Also you will need ls1 radiator hoses but the LT1's heater hoses will work just need to be cut. The Ls1 condensor will need to be used but the LT1 radiator can be retained.
In order to maintain the stock fuel system a 97-98 vette fuel rails or a 98 fbody fuel filter/regulator will have to be used. I used the filter/regulator and mounted it off my tower bolts. I went to Napa and had about an 18 inch quick disconnect nylon hose made for it. Directly plug.
If you have an aftermarket intake for the lt1 keep it, I cant think of the website but there is one out there for intakes that has silicon elbows that can be used to mount to a moroso and maybe a K&N intake. Some performance shops should have this too.
Also DO NOT FORGET to hook up the vacuum line off the back of the intake for vent control in the car. CANNOT be reached after installed. Also make sure the crank sensor under the starter on the passenger side is plugged in or it can be a major pain. The air pump mounted up front on the driver frame can be removed a big plastic flat cylinder thing you can't miss it. The crusie control will probably still function if you can mount the wire onto the throttle body It didnt look to hard to to but my button on my column didn't work and no replacements were any where so I didn't bother. The safties can also be wired in but that is another post
Ls1 pedals will need to be used if you are going to do an a4 to m6 swap. With the 2002 LS1 T56 set up the master is built on to the pedal and is an easy install with a 1 5/8's hole saw I believe and a drill for the two holes for the u bolt. The T56 simply bolts in with the LT1 crossmember, the remote master cylinder mounts up by the master booster on the two pins and then plug in your hydraulic line and wiring such as VSS and Reverse lockout (I didnt use skip shift). The same driveshaft can be used between the two drivetrains.
A hole will also have to be cut in the floor for the swap there is a divet in the trans tunnel where it should be cut keep your cuts about an inch in from the outer line at all times just use a angle grinder or sawzaw, and I used the 2002 center console which bolts directly in.
Pretty much the extent of my swap.
Last edited by Radcannon; May 9, 2009 at 11:50 PM.
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