I stopped down after work and asked them about degreeing the cam.. They didnt think that was the issue and were leaning towards the "chirp" in the motor.. I saw the thread where 15hp was gained w/ the cutouts.. I would hollow out the cats in a heartbeat.. Looking forward to hearing what they find when they drop the pan.. After inspecting the oil filter didnt seem too bad?? I understand any metal in the oil is bad.. Seems like some is to be expected after all the new parts.. fingers crossed.. I want the car back bad.. To warm to be driving a winter beater..

 

Valves ok? Im thinking you may have them to loose or tight.

 

I did the valves originally with motor running 1/8 turn past where they were clicking.. When I dropped car off at tuner I asked them to adjust, they did them using a dial indicator..

 

bottom end is toast.. Strocker time...

 

What do you mean toast? Details.

 

they pulled pan and 3 rods all shot.. pulled 1 main cap bearing spun.. said it looked like it has been going on for a while.. The low oil sensor had layers of metal on it..

 

Sorry to hear the bad news..

 

After seeing your pics, spun bearing was my thought too. Had the same problem on my ride on the dyno. Low power, metal in oil. Sorry to hear it.

Mav

 

thanks guys..

 

Joe is right, don't do this. The camshaft was designed for a certain rocker ratio, this isn't 1974.

Have you ever had first had experience or CC'ed some of Lloyd's heads? I've done a few and you're making quite the accusation to say they are off by 25cc and don't flow the numbers they claim. I could understand if Lloyd was a snake oil salesman who just peddled junk to feeble minded folks, but he's been around a long time, does excellent work, and supports this community year after year. You're clearly a novice and we don't need the blind leading the blind off a cliff here [parking brake and 1.5 rockers].


Well that's no fun. Keep the heads, get Lloyd to spec you a bigger cam,and enjoy the new stroker.

 

Banking on the heads are not effected.. Also hoping the cams ok.. Gonna tear the bottom end down and see whats left and go from there..

 

If you're sticking N/A I'd find a good factory crank, ARP bolt some PM rods, get .030" over pistons and let it eat. Then you won't lose money on selling/buying a cam and tune for a 383, not to mention the new crank, rods, etc.

I doubt the heads or cam got jacked up, have them inspected and re-install. Don't change rocker ratio, don't buy new heads or any of that malarkey.

 

Thanks for advice.. They cylinders still had quite a bit of criss cross when I had the heads off.. What are you thoughts about doing a ball hone and just re-ringing original pistons?

 

The last motor I built we checked both the bores and pistons and they were within tolerance so we honed and re-ringed the motor. New Mahle rings are lke $65. If you're able to do that it'll save you even more money. If you're N/A at not at radical power levels I think it'd be a good move, especially on a budget. We had the crank turned and did ARP bolted PM rods. The motor has a XE503 cam with GTP heads and runs like a top in a C4 Corvette.

 

What worked in 1974 works today also, and it will work as long as combustion engines exist. When did they start stroking engines, I bet way before 1974 and people are still doing that today? Believe it or not some people stager rockers today in search of power, but I shouldn’t have to point this out to an expert like your self.
The OP claimed he wasn’t making the power he hoped for or at least on the dyno, there was nothing about engine troubles till latter. He indicated nothing other then his mechanic hearing a chirp noise. I’m not here to participate in your sausage-wagging contest, and yes, my parking/break pad was stuck on one side where it wore down to the point that it could have been used as a door wedge.