There's no way would that be COSTING him horsepower, ESPECIALLY not the 40-50HP we're talking.

 

I installed the cam, no it was not degreed just dot to dot..

 

I stopped down to the shop yesterday after work.. He said he noticed the motor had a “chirp” at idle and it would stumble a little then regain normal idle.. He removed the serpentine belt and the “chirp” was still there.. It has a brand new water pump and it didn’t think that was it anyhow.. He drained the oil and ran it through a filter. The oil itself was colored looked to me like it still was washing out cam pre-lube but did a 2-3 very small silver flecks I rubbed one fleck between my fingers and it came apart guessing it was aluminum maybe some residue from head job? Seemed if it was steel I would have felt it on my finger tips and wouldn’t have come apart. I didn’t think to check w/ a magnet or ask for the oil filter. Before I brought the car in I had changed the oil 1x after the initial startup and about 30 miles. They want to drop the pan and look further..

 

CC the heads

 

hey bsin w a guy at work and he mentioned that if u had aluminum in pan and chirp from front of motor maybe take timing cover off first.... taking oil pan off doesnt make much sense to me seeing as you didnt have lower end apart.... i feel like their just fising at this point. id cut the old oil filter in half to and see how much aluminum is in there.... just my opinion good luck! also waterpump runs off timing chain in lt1's not the serp belt- id pull cover before pan

 

Yea I was thinking maybe have them degree the cam to rule that out since we are taking things apart anyways.. I wish I did grab the filter yesterday..

 

Can't reply to your pm, also make sure the timing is not being affected by the knock sensor.

 

not sure what you meant.

CC the heads?

 

Well they claim it's 205cc intake and ??cc on the exhaust, maybe it's just a 180cc head that can't flow the numbers you were looking to get. Aside timing being off I really can't see what else would cost you that much HP unless your parking brake is stuck.

 

It was a standard LE2 head job which includes those valves.. I will run the parking brake possibility up the flag pole lol...

 

Again, you guys are all missing and/or disregarding a BIG clue here.

The engine is not making power above 5,500 RPM.

Since the OP has still not posted the actual dyno chart/graph, we can only guess what may be going on here. Is the engine making reasonable horsepower and torque at 3,500 RPM, 4,000, 4500, etc. Is the motor "on its way" to decent peak power numbers, but ..... "nosing over" at 5,500???

 

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I got the point perfectly. That's why I mentioned degreeing the cam. It will have a big effect on power and how high it wants to rev..

SSSean - While the couple aluminum flakes would not worry me, it may still be a good idea to have a look.. the water pump or heads could have had a little flake still in them that came loose. This would give the guys at the shop a chance to degree the cam also, because to pull the timing cover you have to drop the pan down anyway.

My Comp custom grind was 3 - 4 degrees advanced on the intake lobe,but the exhaust was straight up. So I had to run it that way, or retard the intake to get it straight up, and have the exhaust 3 degrees retarded. It was a mess... I got a cam from Mike Jones and it degreed in perfect.

 

You made your maximum torque of 340.8 at 4,500 RPM, but, that torque value falls off quickly to (about?) 312 just (about?) 800 RPM later at 5,300 RPM. That 312 torque value is just about the same as it was at 2,500 RPM where your pull started. Read this old thread:

https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/gen...ed-lt1-384077/

... and note the effect of removing an exhaust restriction, (i.e. by "opening the cutout") on this car's dyno performance.

Before I would start taking that engine apart ....... I would do an "open header" dyno pull.

 

I tend to agree with dropping the exhaust since its fairly easy to do and eliminate that as a restriction. I have seen the exhaust and intake be the restriction in alot of turbo builds. Many of them falling flat well before hitting boost potential. Given your fuel pressure doesnt drop off at high rpm( also easy to moniter) and no air intake restriction and no exhaust restriction then I would be looking in the setup and or spark. Hope its an easy and cheap fix. Keep us posted and good luck.


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