LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

looking to do a low budget 355. What do u suggest?

Old Jun 23, 2004 | 01:40 PM
  #1  
KeVMaN's Avatar
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From: Modesto, CA
looking to do a low budget 355. What do u suggest?

My car has got around 185K on it, and it still runs strong, but i'm just starting to get worried about something breaking. So i'm considering doing a 355 rebuild.. There is a kit in the summit catalog that has forged pistons, rings, bearings, and hardware for like 539 or somewhere around there. Doing this, i would be using the stock connecting rods/crank shaft, is this a smart decision? I don't think the motor will see past 6200 rpm or so. I'm going to be using stock heads, but i'm going to get the hotcam kit, new pushrods and lifters. I'm also going to go with a better timing chain and electirc water pump. I know i'll have to pay to get it machined (what exactly needs to be done besides the boring?) and how much will that cost me? Should I just get a bare lt1 block machined, then swap in the parts so i don't have as much down time? ( this is my daily driver, i might pick up a pos or borrow a car or something during the rebuild). I know i'm going to need a new gasket set also. How much do you think i can pull this off for? Could it be done for 2-2500? I'm looking to build a solid, reliable daily driver that still has some ***** (with full boltons i'm looking for 325-350 to the ground, i'd be happy with that). My tranny is ready to go, and i'm working on the suspenion stuff now. What do you guys think?

(btw, the reason i'm not going with a bigger cam, besides driveability, is that i live in cali and have to pass smog)
Old Jun 23, 2004 | 07:03 PM
  #2  
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If I was in your spot I would bore it to a 355. With a 185k the cylinder walls have to be a little out of round. So that would solve the problem. You didn't say anything about boost or juice and your planning on 330rwhp, there isn't any need for forged pistons. Get some keith black hypers, decent rods and have your crank looked at (balanced,etc.) and you should be set. Get good bearings and bolts, dont skip out there. On the top half of the motor I would try and get a little money to get your heads at least cleaned up. If your funds allow so, a custom grind cam for the heads. Or something like a xe224/230 on 112 or 114 would make much better power than the hotcam. I don't want to say that it isn't a good cam but it was introduced years ago. I am not sure if your planning on doing any of the work but if not you are going to spend the same on parts as you do on labor. The parts alone could cost you 2k.
Old Jun 23, 2004 | 08:49 PM
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The majority of the work will be done by myself. obviously i'll have to pay to have it machined/ballanced, but i've built gen 1 sbc's before, and i assume this wouldn't be much different. The reason i was going with forged, was 1, the normal hyperutectic rebuild kit was like $450, and the forged kit is like $530, so why not? and 2, I MIGHT put it on the bottle somewhere down the line if I get bored with the power i'm making. nothing major, probably just a 100 shot for when the c6 vettes start coming out I'm kind of cautious of getting my heads ported, as it would seem the car would have a less chance of passing smog doing so. I know the hot cam is a very mild cam, but i'm not looking to break any records here, i just want something comparable to an ls1 power wise, and a nice sound, and still emmissions friendly. plus, the kit with the springs, caps, retainers, and roller rockers can be had for like $450 and i'd have to buy all that **** anyway. I'm still very much open to suggestions tho. I'm considering just getting a block when i can, and getting started on it, and just build the whole bottom end up. that way when it comes to swap it on, the only real down time is going to be the engine swap, so only a couple of days. Do they check to make sure you have the same engine when you get a car smogged? I can't recall him doing anything other than hooking up to the computer and using the sniffer...
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