I figure that with longer length valves.. say 0.200" more it will result in bigger install height springs.. Am I correct?

Another thing is that I will need to change the length of the pushrod??

What is the advantage of running a longer valve?

 

I meant longer length not bigger diameter...

 

Oops, I am sorry man. I guess it is time to go to bed now

 

No prob man, thanks anyways.. What I am looking to know is how the geometry changes in the valvetrain?? I mean.. I would need to get shims, or shorter pushrods???

 

No advantage, it's just done out of necessity. Maybe the head is a high port type head (taller casting), or maybe the spring requirements are such that a large diameter wire will not allow for the correct coil bind clearance. Then you go to a longer valve or cut the spring pocket deeper.

Just necessity at times. But you're adding weight on the critical side of the valvetrain, so it's not advantageous.

-Mindgame

 

What about titanium valves?

 

What about titanium valves do you want to know?

-Mindgame

 

If I were to get ones cheap... Are they worth it?? I have 2.02 and I want to step up to 2.05 or maybe 2.08 and 1.65 on the exhaust?? This is with AFR 190cc heads.

 

Not worth it.
You'd be 1000³ times better off spending the money on your cylinder heads. No gains in going Ti for a street motor that'll never see over 8k rpm.

-Mindgame

 

But what about the 2.08 valves on the intake and 1.65 exhaust?

What about manley/ferrea valves? Worth it?? and if the set costs 200 bucks on the ti valves.. still not worth it? I am still learning. .that is why I ask, but one thing is very curious.. if you spend on ti retainers to lower weight why not valves?

 

Because you are talking no bang for the buck.

Titanium retainers are anywhere from $60-150. They reduce some weight on the critical side of the valvetrain and the valve has less effective mass.

Same goes for ti valves but look at the cost.... ~$80 per valve. Question is, is there a valvetrain problem that warrants a titanium valve???? Not at the revs seen on a street engine. The springs should be able to handle the job just fine at "street engine" revs. Once you really start spinning things that changes and there comes a point where the springs can't do their job properly. We're talking race engines here.

A 2.08/1.6 is just fine, although you will want to talk to a good porter. He will tell you if that's a good valve combination for the head or if you should consider something smaller. A 1.65 is most likely a waste... spend the money to have the exhaust port worked for your engine demands.

-Mindgame

 

I dont have a head porter right now.. my heads where ported and there was a decent job made on them.. they are afr 190 heads...

I was thinking on putting better valves than the ones I have right now and was thinking of a bit bigger valves to aid the boost (lower it abit with more power as a result).