Delteq DOES NOT solve every problem the opti can have, like in my case... I had the thing practically seize, normally you can turn it without a problem but when I took my bad one off it would turn maybe 1/4 turn and sound like it was grinding up rocks inside it. Someone said the bearing went bad so my optical sensor and cap and rotor may still be good so delteq wouldnt have done anything for me. Ide wait for a complete opti replacement to come around since it can still have issues with a delteq on there. Plus I have longtubes and duals so I know what difference they made

 

well I am always looking for more peformance but this is a daily driver and orginal opti with 98,000 on the clock. The Exhaust is stock catted y-pipe and stock catback.
Does anyone have pictures of longtubes and the delteq system. How did everyone run the plug wires?

 

i just put the long tubes in last week, yea im sure that the delteq is pretty cool, but i dont think that it compares to the sound and performance you will get out of the headers. especialy with a cam. as far as the opti, I have 114000 miles on the original and it runs great, it seems to be all luck with them, and like was said before, the opti can still go after the delteq is in, it isnt a complete replacement for it, but it works with the opti. I say go with the headers.

 

I am also wondering if anyone has pictures of an x-pipe setup going over the axle?

 

the x pipe isnt a big deal in chevy motors. fords have issues if you dont. i had one on my initial exhaust, then took it out. i felt a small amount of power gain from the removal.

 

No you don't have to. But if you opti is acting up, I would replace it as well. But you may not even have to.

The 2 major reasons the opti fails is because of the cap and rotor creating lots of heat, and moisture. And over time your performance goes down the drain followed by missfires and crappy fuel economey. Now in some cases it works its way to optical sensor. This isn't as common as the cap and rotor part, but can still be the case if your opti is acting up.

Once you add the Delteq, it will no longer have problems with heat and moisture like in the past. Because the Delteq only uses the opti for the optical pickup. You can actually take your opti apart, and remove the cap and rotor, and leave the optics. The optical part of the opti is still a great unit, and isn't a downfall once you goto the delteq. Many LT1's keep the opti for the optics, and they have held up on high reving motors.

So what it comes down to is this, if you have a healthy opti currently upgrading to the delteq is still an awesome move IMO, especially if you have big plans for your motor in the future. If your opti is currently acting up, the Delteq may solve your problem comepltly, but you may need to replace it if the optical part of it is damaged.

I just wanted to post this, to help with some of the folks wondering about the delteq.

If I was in this guys shoes, I would really have to look over the whole thing. SLP shorties are probably the best shorty header out there. But its a pretty dam proven fact that longtube headers will increase your power on cammed when running shorties.

Now I am really thinking that your current exhaust setup has room for improvement. I don't know if your running a offroad y-pipe or a free flowing exhaust setup (or cutout). If you are. And your still producing those HP #'s. It looks like you need the LT's.

But here is where I can't make the full decision. His numbers look pretty low for LT4 hot cam, bolt-on LT1. I would like to see your A/F #'s in the upper PRM's. Because if they are still at 12:1 even after the tune, I think your ignition isn't efficiently giving the spark it needs. And therefore I think you give the Delteq a shot, and go back to the dyno.

So if you can, please post your dyno sheet.

Mike

 

if your opti is giving problems do the Delteq, but if not the MSD you have will keep the fuel burning well enough that the LT's and X-pipe would definately give better performance, and sound great.

 

Key word there being MAIL ORDER TUNE. Only way I really see you picking up any time by an ignition upgrade on a bolt-on engine is if your current ignition is going to crap. IMO the Delteq will give peace of mind, but don't expect it to make your car any faster.

Go with the LT's and X-pipe (and true duals I assume?). When your opti ****s the bed, hope it's the cap & rotor side, and then order the Delteq.

 

I have dyno #'s to back up my gains as well.

 

Here is a link to my Dyno sheet. http://members.***.net/jtb4299/Dyno%...0converter.jpg

aintno6 you mentioned poor fuel economey, because I am getting 12 and if I am lucky 13 MPG mostly highway driving. I have O2 sensors on the way to check with that problem. I am also getting 7 to 8 degrees of knock retard at WOT. I am still working on that. The car seems to have a slight miss in it above 5300 RPM but I am thinking that is due to the knock, I still need to buy some race fuel to see if it is false. If I determine I have false knock what steps do I take to get rid of it?

 

Hmmm, your car is still pulling in the upper rpm's, and it doesn't look like there are any crazy spikes in the A/F as far as I am concerned. But after reading about you are running stock y-pipe and catback. I think think the exhaust is really holding you back.

Figure out your knock retart issues first. Look for any exhaust leaks. And if you don't have a LT4 KM get one. Check for any burnt wires as well.

Once your knock issue are solved, it looks like a set of longtubes and true duals would really help out more vs the delteq.

Do you have an lt4 knock module right now?
Can you actually hear any loud ticking or clicking durring acceleration?

When you put the new o2 sensors in, inspect your plugs. If they indicate that your motor is running rich, then throw a new set in. Then after 1000 miles after the new o2, take a look at the plugs again, and inspect them.

 

Yes I do have a LT4 KM and the plugs are a couple of months old I will give everything you said about the plugs a try. I do have a constant ticking but I think it is mostly from the roller rockers. I also get knock retard at all RPM ranges load or no load on the motor usally reads 0 only at idle.
Do you think I am losing much HP?
I will try to get race fuel tomorrow.

 

Yikes, wow thats alot of knock retard. When did this come about?

I know with my exhaust leak on cold startups I get 1-4 degrees KR driving. So like I said check for that. And you may want to go back and check the lash on the rockers as well.

Have you checked for any codes recently?

Mike

 

I have no codes. I bought Autotap a couple of weeks ago that is when first became aware of it. I put in new header gaskets a couple of months ago and I don't think I have a leak. I will see if my buddy will help me adjust the rockers this weekend. I think I am going to try adjusting them while running this time. previosly my first ajustment was 1/2 turn then tried 1/4 turn and I could not here any differance. I am still using stock lifters how far past zero lash should I go this time.