Thats the other thing, I've noticed that 96-97 LT1's typically post up better times stock than do 93-95.

 

I really hope you're not serious. R/T has absolutely nothing to do with your E/T or Trap Speed.

I hate to be a jerk, but the search function is an amazing feature on this site. LT1 owners have been asking the same damn questions over and over again for a very long time. Notice how I've been a member for how long? and have how many posts? The search function is your best friend.

HAD you (original thread author) used the search function, you would have found this great thread made a while ago which is amazingly titled "How to get your LT1 Automatic into low/flat 12s"

http://web.camaross.com/forums/showthread.php?t=357417

By doing a little bit of searching, and reading more than posting the same things over and over, I've got my '94 into the mid 12s on a very mild buildup N/A.

 

congrats to you.

 

Look at my sig, I'm running low 13's (best et 13.238 @ 105mph) now before my Spohn TA. Haven't had a chance to get to the track yet after I bolted that on but I should be knocking on high 12's if I can get my car to hook. Before still hooking only a 2.0 (got some 1.98 60's) with stk TA. The Spohn should give me another tenth or two in the 60 so it is possible to get a high 12.

Tony

 

we should close all the technical forums down and everyone will search for everything. if you havent noticed that article involves a cam swap. he wants bolt ons only.

 

I completely agree, the search function is an amazing tool.

It just frustrates me, because its not like there is an all of a sudden breakthrough in LT1 technology where you bolt on a brand new $20 doo-hickey whatcha-macallit and it'll put you in the 12s . These motors have been doing the same thing for over a decade now, it is nothing new.

Its the same flavor different juice.

Intake and full exhaust, if you don't have smog go with long tubes and an off road y-pipe. If you have an auto then look into a higher stall converter and some decent rubber to put the power down to the pavement.

Its not rocket science, if you don't want to tear into the motor for a cam swap (and/or heads), then you need to let the motor inhale and exhale more freely, if you have to go onto the internet to find this out, then sweet jesus go get yourself a bus pass.

A lot of it simply comes down to a tuneup, track conditions (which can vary heavily), and the most important driver mod.

 

I know of three ways to run 12s, all quite similar. Please note that they all have tuning. Tuning is SO essential on these cars.

Tires, tune, cai, gears, catback.

Tires, tune, cai, LTs, catback.

Tires, tune, LTs, LCAs, catback.

 

Sig

 

damn you guys get good times. I had...
3.73s
mac midlengths & Y pipe
high flow cat
SLP loudmouth
SLP CAI
madz28 tuning
new plugs and wires

ran a 13.8 @ 102 best
I had stock stall and street tires though. when I went back with a failing opti and BFG DRs I ran a 14.0 @ 100.

 

Zig....Since you already have most of the intake and exhaust covered, i'd throw a cam in there and really wake it up,

 

my car ran constant 13.3's with LT headers, 3.73's, O/R Y pipe, CAI, Transgo, and tuning...@125K+ miles



with 2.0 60ft's

 

Wise choice.
Plus the factory setup is put together better then most mechanics can get them together .I only know one guy who has installed gears and never had any of them wine. Its a pretty precise thing to do it right and the factory gets it as close and can be. I hate howling gears!

 

Auto:gears,tune,stall,CAI. BAM! your there.
My m6 LT1 hit 12's with 4:10's,headers,tune,cai.

 

The TC and DRs are going to take huge chunks out of your ET. Definitely worth the investment. Even if you only run the DRs at the track (spare set of rims)

 

People who are recommending spray better think about skipping low 13's and high 12's LOL..

CAI/LT's/Catback/2800 stall/DR's/tune got me into the 12's.

A 224/230 on the same setup with 3.73's got me into the low 12's almost 11's.