The original ticking was the valves hitting the pistons? Did it break a spring or the valve hit the piston breaking it?

 

the valve hit the piston and when it did it broke off. It was still attached to the spring.

 

Thanks

 

new info. the machine shop is telling me that i have damaged 4 pistons and 1 rod. they also said that i would have to go from the 40 over to 60 over on the block so the only things i have still good are the crank 7 rods cam and heads with some work about 700 to give u a dollar amount. I have a virgin block and heads still assembled. Im looking for the best method of going about redoing it. do i sleeve the cyl and go 60 over, use the virgin and go 20 over or scrap them both get a assembled short block. just trying to get some place to start cause it looks like im starting over just about.

thanks in advance
chris

 

go virgin, allways better............

 

thats kinda what i was thinking and it will be about the same price all ill have to pay extra for is reclearanceing it for the crank

 

.060 is going to be hard to do in a stock block. It makes the wall's to thin.
If ya have 4 bolts already installed then I would sleeve the cyls that need it and get some pistons.
This time check THE P/V CLEARANCE or get the right valve springs.

 

they are doing the assembly this time the cracked one is a stock 4 bolt the virgin is a two bolt

 

I would fix the cyl's in the 4 bolt. There is nothing wrong with properly installed sleeves.
Ya got to weigh the cost of doing the new block,converting to 4 bolt, and all the other machine work to make it like the damaged 4 bolt and what the cost is to fix the 4 bolt.