437/444

 

You use the thick tight-wound stuff. I don't like the idea of a compressor locking up or having a power failure and dropping a valve. To each their own I guess.

Plus it's 50x easier than trying to thread a hose into the spark plug hole.

 

I don't use either, just bring the piston you are working with up to TDC, if the valve seals are good they will hold the valve up enough while you are working with it and there's no danger of dropping a valve into the cylinder.

 

What if you've got the springs off because you're changing valve seals? haha

 

Not a problem, most of the pain is keeping them "up" to put the springs back on usually.. taking them off is the easy part.

Bring piston to TDC, remove spring, remove valve seal, replace valveseal, pull valve up, replace spring. With the ls1tech tool mentioned earlier we've found it to be the easiest way.. it ain't cake, but it's still easier.

 

haha I was just razzin you.

That's one reason I like the screw type for putting the springs back on. The LS1tech tool is a PITA for putting springs back on. I about shot myself the first time I tried it.

 

There's a trick to the LS1tech tool that gets the spring on quickly.. I don't even know how to do it, but my buddy who I do cam installs with does, so I let him do that crap while I button up the rest of the car Lucky him

 

any pics of the car?

 

With the piston at tdc the valve will only drop about a half inch and hit the piston. This allows you to change the seals

 

Yup this method works too. But I found it is about the same amount of work to throw rope in there and keep the valve at full height, which every little bit helps when reinstalling springs. It's all just personal preference I guess.

 

It is next week where are the numbers?

 

413 rwhp 429 rwtq

 

I think those are my old heads Lloyd. Sorry to hear about the springs, the heads only had about 800 miles on them. And I didn't touch them. ie, set new spring hight.

 

Oh, my guess is 385hp

 

running on 7 cylinders