466 RWHP SAE corrected

 

bee hives but befeore I bought them another shop inspected them before this guy sold them and set them up at 1.850 instead of 1.750 and since these are a whoire to change, I am just gonna throw a new set on and set them up right while I am at it.

I should have checked the ht and pressure instead of ASSUMING they were good or correct. It's all on me and I am the one that's gotta do the spring change on the car because of it. Eh, hind sifght is always 20/20. If nothing else, this is a good lesson to others when buying used heads.

Lloyd

 

433 sae wrhp

 

435/417 converter locked.

 

I'd say 415rwhp

 

If you hit 450 rwhp your going to hook me up this winter.

 

That makes sense now, they basically installed the springs at 115lbs on the seat! Don't ask me how, but that's not going to work on any HR cam.

FWIW the previous owner drove from Miss/Alabama to California and back along with beating on the setup pretty hard. I thought the float was just due to all the miles but it looks like the numb nutz who reset them up again caused the issue by not installing them with enough seated pressure.

Makes you wonder.... anyways it's a good lesson when letting another shop check out a setup that is already working the way it was designed that they can **** it up bad with their "improvements" to what they think is right.

bret

 

that is exactly what my 396 made

GTP stage 2 heads
Lazer 222/228 .544/.536 112
M6
10 bolt

 

424/440

 

390 RWHP.
Changing the springs in the car isn't that bad, should only be about an hour to hour and a half.
Murphies law right? It's because of situations like this that I NEVER install anything without measuring, even then stuff can go wrong (type-r lifters anyone?) . It's always something. Like bret said, someones 'improvements' probably caused the situation. Although it's strange that a guy would buy a set of proted heads from you, and in less than 6 mo have another guy in there to make changes? Some people are just odd I guess. I know people who behave like this and the 1 thing they have in common is their cars suck. That's the kind of back yard, 2 car garage, louder is faster thinking that makes car guys look bad.

Make sure to check your wheel bearings, and free up the caliper slides. I am excited to see the results! Good Luck!

P.S. To the guy that set's off car allarms @ 7:00 am, if you are running any slower than 10.0 you should have mufflers.

 

well, my yank 3000 stall is stalling 4200-4400 so I am gonna YANK that beiotch out and send it back to them to make sure all is well. If they open it up and say that it is working correctly and the weight/TQ is just making it act this way, I definitely need a milder stall for my style of driving.

This converter would do real well with some slicks and a lil more gear. A few years back, it would have been "PERFECT" but it is just a lil too much like a rubber band in this car and you have to be very careful on the throttle. A lil too much pedal when taking off and it will try and lauch or blow the tires away. Kinda tricky to drive untril I get used to it.

I'll just post up in a few weeks with the new converter and springs when it is ready to dyno again.

Lloyd

 

It is odd, but the funny thing is his car was quick with them before as well. So ya got me to why someone did that.

Bret

 

Lloyd, I've found changing beehives isn't all that bad with this method.

Pop out all the plugs and throw feed some rope into the cylinder. Slowly rotate the motor over by the crank (all rockers should be off) Until you feel the rope compress slightly. Get one of these tools (http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=317675) in the LT1 style to take the springs off and then use a screw type to stick them back on. Works like a charm for me and I can do all the springs in roughly 60-90 minutes.

 

438 rwhp 423 rwtq

 

I prefer to use a leakdown tester and put compressed air into the cylinder to hold the valves up. I dont like the idea of putting rope into my engine.