I have to agree with relearning to drive..about any manual will buck at too low of an RPM.Especially one with a performance cam.I NEVER drive mine below like 1600.I am sure gears would help..and a better tune.

 

Get it dyno tuned....

 

mine would surge/buck really bad also with cc306....Had to drive it above 2k

You probly need the gears... and the gears also help your clutch when taking off...you don't have to slip it so much

 

I don't think it is the gears. I am running 3.08s right now with no surging or bucking. I broke the pinion on my 4.10s and I am running a borrowed rearend. Now 6th is almost useless but, otherwise everything is fine.

 

I'm with the others who say dyno tune.. my LE2 heads/cam was undriveable with a mail order tune.. swallowed the 500$ and picked up 30 rwhp on top of the mail order tune and the car is almost as driveable as stock.

 

Like guys have said, it's a mild cam. A CC306 has much, much more overlap and is driveable as well. This is all in the tune on your car, not to mention a small vacuum leak can cause nightmares.

FWIW Cloyes Double Rollers.... i've found these things to be the biggest PITA to degree in correctly and they are always off. Now throw on a good timing chain setup and BAM everything degrees in perfect. ProGear is what I like now.... I sent one down to Lloyd for his motor and it worked great for him as well.

Bret

 

The LE1 cam is a mild cam (less overall duration than a CC 305 and CC 503 cam for those that have no idea about the specs). It should idle at 800-850 RPM (Maybe 100-200 RPM higher on factory tach) and make good power right off idle.

There should be no problems like you mentioned with good tuning and everything lined out. I would get it scanned and see what the L and R O2's and BLM's show as well as TPS, MAF, KR, etc. This will go A LONG way in helping you find the problem.

Make SURE there re no exhaust leaks, bad plug wires, bad plugs, vacuum leaks, dirty MAF, leaks between the MAF, TB and all piping in between.

Lots of things can cause the problems but the cam itself is not the problem. Stick with it and iron out the bugs and you will be VERY happy once it get running like it should.

 

I will be buying AutoTap tomorrow and I will check all these sensors and find what the problem is.
I definately agree that it is not the cam or heads causing the problems.

Lloyd, these heads look amazing, give me a couple weeks to work the bugs out and Ill post some dyno graphs. It feels very strong, I think ill get some high numbers

 

Very true....A buddy of mine just tried to use the Cloyes Double Roller on his cam install.....I degreed the cam in for him and we found it to be causing nearly 8 degrees of retard(im suure that would have ran real good LOL)...this was with the timing dots perfectly lined up.....we switched to the GM LT4 chain kit, and it was then only retarded 1 degree(plenty acceptable)......Installing any camshaft and "not" degreeing it in to check the accuracy of how the cam manufacturer ground the cam, drilled and positioned the dowel pin in the end of the cam, how the timing set manufacturer machined everything(crank sprocket cam sprocket ECT).......is just a big guess on where the cam is sitting............Joe

 

There are plenty of people saying the cam is mild enough to not have the problems mentioned and I figured you can tell that also. I was just giving you some advice and confidence that you can get it will be fine once the problems are ironed out.

Joe B,

Just think, if the cam timing is 8 degrees off, the spark timing is gonna be 16 degrees off.

Yea, that thing would have NEVER ran right.

 

Been driving my LE2.1 setup for 6 months now.
To work and back every day (~40mi) and on a few road trips.

Without a tune, it would be very difficult to drive.
Even a mail order tune would be helpful.
I know PCMForless has done quite a few LE tunes.
I used his as a base and did the fine tuning with a wideband A/F meter and a moates.net datalog cable.

I sure hope you're able to get it running, it'll be a sweet ride when you're done.

 

Well part of my problem is that I was still running my stock plugs at stock gap

Tomorrow I will be switching to Autolite 104 gapped at .035 because Lloyd recommended it

I may also have a vacuum leak at the throttle body plate since I had alot of trouble getting the screws tight on the 52mm bored TB off of ebay
I will address this tomorrow also

 

Once you have it sorted out, it'll purr like a tiger and run like a raped ape.

 

The two biggest driving improvements I made on my car after it was finished was fine tuning the tune (with a wideband) and lowering the gear ratio. I was running 3.73:1, and it esd iffy on take offs. I switched to 4.40:1 gears, and it's a completely different car. Much easier to drive and my cam is much bigger than yours. I cruise at 2,000 rpm at 75 mph.