LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

Last minute help before I put it together!

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Aug 2, 2007 | 01:08 AM
  #1  
porksoda's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 439
From: Clovis, New Mexico
Last minute help before I put it together!

Alright so my opti went out almost 2 weeks ago and I just came up with the money to buy everything I wanted. I bought NGK plugs, Taylor OTVC wires, MSD coil, and MSD opti. Everything has arrived and is waiting for me to put back on but I want some last minute help before I do. I just want some things that are often overlooked. BTW this is my 1st time replacing this. Last time I paid my mechanic.

I have already changed plugs and wires. The opti is waiting to be put on until I get the new gasket from MSD to replace the O-ring that has proved troublesome for some. I already know how to line up the splines and everything, I've practiced with the old opti to get the feeling. I have used blue threadlocker on the rotor screws in the opti and I have thread sealant for the waterpump bolts. The coil is already mounted but I read about having to put some heat grease or something under the ICM? Do I have to take it back apart and do that? The ICM tested good at Autozone.

Is there anything else I need to be aware of or need to buy? I'm using the write up in LS1 Wiki and I know it is forgetting some things since it doesn't mention anything about threadlocker or thread sealant.

I'll also be changing my coolant since when I drained it it looked brown and thick! Any tips or writeups for this? Should I use dex cool or green stuff? Do I need any of those additives for the flush or will just plain water do? Distilled water or tap water?
Old Aug 2, 2007 | 05:35 AM
  #2  
Guest47904's Avatar
Guest
 
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 0
Absolutely no Dex. Green all the way. Never use tap water. Distilled only or you can buy already mixed 50/50.

If you don't have an air evacuator, use this method for getting the air out. Fill it with the air bleed screws open then close them and start it. Let it run at least until you see flow (when the thermo opens up). Keep filling until the level stops dropping. Close it up and shut er down until the next morning and be sure the resevoir tank is topped off. Next morning check it before you start it up. Top it off and close it up and you're ready to go.
Old Aug 2, 2007 | 02:03 PM
  #3  
porksoda's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 439
From: Clovis, New Mexico
Any help for puttin the opti boots on too? And crimping I need help with that too. Like what slot do I use to crimp? I have the hand held crimper.
Old Aug 2, 2007 | 02:29 PM
  #4  
sabre81's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 1,188
From: Western New York
check this out. Should be all the info you need.

http://ken.lowrance.com/projects/OVC...OVCInstall.htm
Old Aug 3, 2007 | 10:10 AM
  #5  
porksoda's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 439
From: Clovis, New Mexico
Very helpful link! Thanks!
Old Aug 6, 2007 | 02:06 AM
  #6  
porksoda's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 439
From: Clovis, New Mexico
Alright MSD is sending me another gasket since the other one never came in! It will be here on Wednesday and I have few questions before then.

1.When I put the water pump back on do I have to smear RTV on the gaskets or does it go on dry?

2.Since I'm using thread sealant on the bolts to the waterpump do I have to wait for it to dry before I refill with coolant?

3.What is the best way to flush and refill after I get it all together? The only drains I HAVEN'T pulled are the 2 on the block.

4.Do I need to use those flush additives when I flush the coolant?
Old Aug 6, 2007 | 05:19 AM
  #7  
Guest47904's Avatar
Guest
 
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 0
You don't need to use gasket sealant but it will come apart much easier the next time if you use a little on the water pump side of the gasket.

There is more than enough time to sit from the time you finish the pump till you get to the point of filling it up. No need to be concerned there.

You only need to use a flush if it's not been drained in long time. Otherwise just fill it with distilled water ONLY and run it till the level stops going down. Then either pull the lower hose or open the petcock on the radiator. Then use the method I mentioned earlier.

Last edited by Guest47904; Aug 6, 2007 at 05:32 AM.
Old Aug 6, 2007 | 05:14 PM
  #8  
porksoda's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 439
From: Clovis, New Mexico
Well I wanted to flush it because I have had the car for almost 2 years and I don't know when the last time it was flushed. It was refilled when I did the cam but not completely changed. And now when I drained it to do the opti the coolant was a orange-brownish color and seemed really thick. So I wanted to flush it and get all new green stuff in!

So I will need to use the additive to flush? Any recommendations?
Old Aug 6, 2007 | 06:33 PM
  #9  
Dave89IROC's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 4,676
From: Melvindale, MI, US
if the coolant looks like thatm yeah, use the flush stuff\


I recommend pulling the block drains if you can, if not, take a hose to the water pump holes while the opti is off
Old Aug 7, 2007 | 07:59 PM
  #10  
porksoda's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 439
From: Clovis, New Mexico
So let me get this correct before Wednesday. This is what I have gotten from you guys so far and what I plan on doing from the info given. These steps will be done after I install the opti, waterpump, and intake ducting.

1) Pull both plugs from bottom of block
2) Refill radiator with distilled water and flush additive
3) Watch fluid with the radiator cap open until thermostat opens and I get movement from the water
4) Continue filling until it doesn't take anymore water
5) Pull drain from bottom of radiator
6) Repeat steps 2-5 until all I get is clear water from draining
7) Fill radiator with 100% green stuff and 50/50 mix in the tank
8) Open bleeder screws and radiator cap and run till hot again. Coolant should spurt from bleeder screws telling me to close them right?

Does this sound good? Also will this get me close to the 50/50 mix I'm supposed to have? Please if this is wrong do a quick write up for me!
Old Aug 8, 2007 | 09:24 AM
  #11  
porksoda's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 439
From: Clovis, New Mexico
ttt
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
DirtyDaveW
Forced Induction
13
Dec 1, 2016 05:37 PM
Magenta_Hearts
New Member Introduction
4
Mar 25, 2015 10:24 AM
captcorvette
Computer Diagnostics and Tuning
2
Mar 7, 2015 12:37 PM
Fatdog2
General 1967-2002 F-Body Tech
2
Feb 12, 2015 12:24 PM
PFYC
Supporting Vendor Group Purchases and Sales
0
Jan 23, 2015 01:13 PM




All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:40 PM.