I bought mine from SD for $835 shipped.
I'll have it on the dyno soon so we'll see the difference over a shorty header.
Probably about a week and a half

 

What kind of gaskets is everyone using?
Anyone had any leaks?

 

Stainless retains the heat without coating them and they will never rust.........Just 2 of the advantages of stainless.

 

what kind of collector on the kooks?

 

spike, man all this talk about kooks makes me want to get some.
Hey I live just outside of houston where is SD located maybe I can save money on shipping and handling. And if I do get them I'll dyno my car before and after to let people know what's up.
-b

 

Part of the reason there more is that they are made of stainless and it costs more than mild steel...And then do they cut dowm on heat also.

 

On the issue of duals. Duals are always a problem on the late model F-Bodys, consequently that is why every header company offers the Y-Pipe. Although, I believe Kooks has built some custom duals for the F-Bodys. So contact Kooks direct and ask for Nick.

Stainless steel is the way to go, with both heat and corrosion! Coatings (as high-tech as they currently are) have to be re-done over a period of time and it is a lot of work to remove and replace headers. I’ll take stainless steel headers any day over headers with coatings!

I used Earls header gaskets with my Kooks and Earls is a Holly company. You can’t go wrong with any Holly product, however, there may be other great header gaskets that I’m not aware of.

The Kooks collectors are slip-fit and I prefer those over the three bolt flange. The Kooks also come with a high-quality stainless steel band claps for the slip-fit.


1997 Silver Z/28 LT1-Auto
w/ 30 th Anniversary navy blue stripes
Kooks Long-Tubs w/ Off-Road Y-Pipe
Crane 1.6 Roller Rockers, K&N Air Intake,
Hypertech Performance Program,
Aluminum Driveshaft and a few "undisclosed"
upgrades.

 

Engineer,


Do you have any idea how high you had to get the car to slip those in?
I have just tried and I'm not high enough to get them in.
What did you use?

Thanks

 

Got any pics of the the car on the ground and a shot from the side to see how far the pipes hand down? Really would like to see the end result of installed Kooks.

 

i know what you mean about the quality issue man. i have arp 12 points holding my coated hookers on. looks great, and you know its not going to crap and rust/oxidize after all this winter weather.

 

I'm working on the pictures, been traveling a lot with work. I drove my Z28 today for the first time in over two weeks.

On sliding the headers in from underneath the car. You need to slide the headers in at about a 45 to 50 degree angle. We had my car up on large jackstands, probably raised about 24" or more off the floor. The back end was also up on jackstands. Just keep lifting the car until you can achieve the angle to slip the headers in, and "be safe!" Use good quality stable jackstands.


1997 Silver Z/28 LT1-Auto
w/ 30 th Anniversary navy blue stripes
Kooks Long-Tubs w/ Off-Road Y-Pipe
Crane 1.6 Roller Rockers, K&N Air Intake,
Hypertech Performance Program,
Aluminum Driveshaft and a few undisclosed
upgrades.

 

Have you had any problems w/ the wire for the 02 sensor? I don't know why the installed the bung on the outside of the collector.

 

I used the Casper's O2 extender wires for the front sensors. And, I spent some time routing the wire on the passanger's side. First, I wrapped the wire in aluminum tape, then routed it along the transmission lines. I haven't had any problems with that installation.

1997 Silver Z/28 LT1-Auto
w/ 30 th Anniversary navy blue stripes
Kooks Long-Tubs w/ Off-Road Y-Pipe
Crane 1.6 Roller Rockers, K&N Air Intake,
Hypertech Performance Program,
Aluminum Driveshaft and a few undisclosed
upgrades.

 

well,

After having mine in a few days I have found a few things I don't like about them.

You cannot use a Very large oil filter like a K&N and even the regular Fram oil filter was so close to the header that I didn't think I could get it off. I had to go back to the regular small AC delco filter but it fits great and is easy to get on and off. The K& N was touching the header pipe. You do not want a filter any longer than 3 3/4" and I believe the A/C Delco was 3.5

I put on a BMR K member right after the install and now my steering shaft is hitting the headers so I will have to grind on it some but not much .

I have been trying to put on a race only 3" set up with Borla muflers and there is no way to make it fit. It looks like the only thing that will work with these is a Y pipe set up.

I also Dyno'd yesterday and I do have a 12 bolt now with 4.11's but my power went down from 337rwhp to 325 NA. So even if the 12 bolt hurt me by
5% maybe I picked up 6-7rwhp from the Kooks over Edelbrock shorties????

I even put on a 58mm throttle body and gained nothing from it.

I didn't expect much because this engine just has a hot cam in it but for guys without heads and big cam it seems like long tubes are overkill and a PINA.

I can say that the plug wires are very easy to run with these headers and plug access is good.

These headers really changed the sound of the car and with the Borlas on everone at the shop thought it was great.


I didn't make any runs on Nitrous because of a problem with my bottle warmer
But I sold a new set of Jet Hots to buy these. Unless you have a lot more HP I can't see how these will be worth the extra $330.

I really bought these for my new engine which should be able to get something out of these since it's a 383 solid roller but so far I'm a little disapointed.

 

Pics already!