Well, I worked hard on the car today...

I seafoamed the car. 1/3 bottle in the intake, 1/3 in the fuel tank, 1/3 in the oil.

I got some smoke, but it wasn't bad. It didn't look like I had blown the engine or anything... But the engine felt a little smoother anyway..

I changed the oil after 15 miles of driving.. I know I probably should have waited longer, but I wanted to get it done.

I put the stock alternator back on the car as well.

I ALMOST put the LT4 Knock Module in the car, but wanted to try the other stuff before.. I figure with my mod level, I should not NEED the LT4 KM...

I also verified that the plug wires are ok. Best I can tell, there are no burnt wires, they are all connected firmly at both ends and the plugs feel snug... The exhaust was still warm so it was difficult to check the back plug on each head.

Hooked up the laptop, fired up autotap and started watching the screen. Revving up the motor (really stabbing the throttle at times) never got me more than 1* KR... I was like COOL!!!

So I start recording, and go driving... It's a *little* better I guess, car feels the same though, but I still got as much as 10.8x* KR!!!

So I drove for a few.. Including a 0-100 MPH run...

I have noticed one thing, that since playing with the TPS sensor, I don't get 100% Throttle Position any more, just get to 99.6...

Here's the file... Anyone else got ideas?Stock Alternator Stock Knock Module Fresh Oil Autotap log.

 

These kinds of problems are very hard to diagnose long distance. Knock looks to happen only between 3900-4200 under wot conditions. The O2 are reading plenty rich. I assume you have tried some 104 octane fuel during logging to rule out false knock. You should pull 1-2 degrees of timing at 3600-4000 range and log again.

 

I have no way to pull 1 or 2 degrees of timing and retest.

I have not run octane booster in it, but have been running 93 octane since I bought it, minus one tank almost a year ago.

I wouldn't think that I should have to change the stock program to combat knock since I haven't changed anything that would effect it... Or at least nothing I've changed should effect it.

Thanks for the input, I really do appreciate it!

Anyone else?

 

Ok, I added the LT4 KM yesterday to see if it would take care of my problem.

It helped a little, but there is still way too much knock retard.

Here's the file: Autotap log w/ LT4 KM

I've done a lot to try and diagnose this issue. Here's all that I know of for possible causes that remains:

Racing Fuel (I'm running 93, always have) - I thought I might try two gallons of 110 mixed with a tank of 93 to see if that helps.

Bad knock sensor - need to test or replace it.

Plug wire routing too close to knock sensor.

Anyone have any other ideas?

How much KR is an acceptable level? 2 degrees, 1 degree, no degrees? Anyone know what a stock, completely un-modded car will show?

 

Hello,

If you test with higher octane gas try 2 gallons of higher (104-110) unleaded mixed with a quarter of a tank of 93. You want to be sure the octane is high enough to eliminate doubt. Do not use octane booster. This seems like a logical step and is pretty cheap and easy.

 

I think the one place locally that sells racing fuel is leaded... I don't know of any place within about 100 miles that sells unleaded racing fuel...

Can I run leaded and not hurt my o2 sensors or cats? I would think that as long as I get enough unleaded mixed with it, I would be ok. But getting enough unleaded mixed with it, might reduce the benefit of the higher octane enough to not make it worthwhile, what are your thoughts?

BTW: Thanks for the tips! Keep them coming, PLEASE!

 

I will look a little closer at the last log. The knock seems to occur only at that 4000 range and it may be at a shift point. This does change the load briefly and can cause knock. I would not think the standard tune would create knock with the mods you have. I do know from experience that the amount of retard you are seeing does not make much difference in how the car feels. I also have run nearly as good at the dragstrip seeing the amount of retard you are. I have reprogrammed to reduce the amount of retard to 4 and allow full timing to come back more quickly. In doing this I was concerned that I would see continued knock but I do not. The knock count does not continue to increase because I reduced the retard amount. I think that the knock count would be the same regardless even if timing was not reduced at all. I have always wished I had logged data on my stock engine before the build. I cannot speak to what would be usual with a stock motor from experience.

I do not know the effect of that amount of leaded gas on cat's or O2's.

 

Don't worry about the 99% throttle position. I see only 99% as well.

 

Ok Grip, thanks! I used to see 100%, but a friend of mine thought the TPS might need adjustment to get better response out of the car. He feels it's too slow to rev and accelerate. So I let him adjust the TPS.. Since then, it's only read up to 99.6%

That's a secondary issue anyway.

 

In my opinion, your main problem is your laptop.

 

Hey, bro....glad to see a fellow Michiganer on here. Funny, you live where my camaro sits all winter. Anyway, I have a issue with your saying that 10 degrees of timing retard wont effect the performance. I went to Martin last night, first time on the new setup. I have a dyno proven 392 rwhp, and a pro tune by Detroit Speedworks. Running a th350 and a 3.42 gear the best I could run last night was a 13.7x with a 1.9 60 foot and a 688 reaction. I am not arguing, simply discussing. We know the setup should run better then that. That is a total of 2 tenths better over last year and we ran stock last year. I would love a chance to discuss this with you, and we could even doit in person with you being so close. But I believe the timing retard to be my problem. Nothing else is showing up, and obviously it is hooking well enough to warrant a better time then what we got.

Q