knock retard
So there is truth to there being OBD1 and OBD2 Knock Modules?
To my knowledge there is only 1 part # for the LT4 KM and there are OBD1 and OBD2 LT4's are there not? Techinically they were all 96's weren't they.
So did Bryan mention whether anything with regards to this or does any one have any data on the differences (knock retard results or technical)?
I did a OBD1 conversion as well and am also pulling upto 9* retard with the LT4 module. I know I still have the LT1 KM but it is a OBD2.
The fact that the 5300RPM point was consistent makes me think their is a correlation with the OBD1 switch.
To my knowledge there is only 1 part # for the LT4 KM and there are OBD1 and OBD2 LT4's are there not? Techinically they were all 96's weren't they.
So did Bryan mention whether anything with regards to this or does any one have any data on the differences (knock retard results or technical)?
I did a OBD1 conversion as well and am also pulling upto 9* retard with the LT4 module. I know I still have the LT1 KM but it is a OBD2.
The fact that the 5300RPM point was consistent makes me think their is a correlation with the OBD1 switch.
I have tried two new LT4 KM's, both gave very wild KR all over the board. My LT1 KM is nearly KR free all over the board. I do not believe the LT4 KM is less sensitive.
I have even replaced the knock sensor with a new Delco one.
I am still waiting to get a dyno tune to reid the remaining KR.
I have even replaced the knock sensor with a new Delco one.
I am still waiting to get a dyno tune to reid the remaining KR.
Last edited by wrd1972; Sep 3, 2007 at 06:41 PM.
so...
even though this thread is really old its pretty intresting
everyone says to swap in a lt4 km to reduce knock retard yet there is atleast two people in this thread that have seen the opposite results
anybody else have any input on this subject
even though this thread is really old its pretty intresting
everyone says to swap in a lt4 km to reduce knock retard yet there is atleast two people in this thread that have seen the opposite results
anybody else have any input on this subject
yeah, im interested too.. i thought i was having some really bad knock retard, but it turns out it was something totally different ,but i had already ordered my lt4 km... so im wondering if its even worth installing.
Since screwing up and reviving this old thread I've ran the LT1 KM for the OBD 1 and OBD2 as I've converted my OBD2 to a 1.
I'm still getting a max of 7* KR (lower the the 9 I was getting) but I think it is from drivetrain noise to be honest. So unfortuneately I don't have clean results to report. I want to run the car while up on jack stands and see if I can find the noise (then fix it) then I will run the car with all of the three different KM's to see which give me the best result. I'll let you know if I can ever get it done.
I'm still getting a max of 7* KR (lower the the 9 I was getting) but I think it is from drivetrain noise to be honest. So unfortuneately I don't have clean results to report. I want to run the car while up on jack stands and see if I can find the noise (then fix it) then I will run the car with all of the three different KM's to see which give me the best result. I'll let you know if I can ever get it done.
I ran both the stock LT1, and an LT4, Knock Modules lately. I had less idle and low throttle knock retard (KR) with the LT1, but showed a couple degrees of KR at WOT. With the LT4 module, I showed more KR at idle/low throttle, but NONE at WOT. I kept the LT4 installed.
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