MORE then?

 

Do you have a scanner? How do the block learns look? Could it be running too lean? Are you seeing 160 BLMs anywhere? If you don't have a scanner and have an AFPR, try turning up the fuel pressure and see if the ping goes away. Detonation can be caused by too much timing but running too lean can do it too.

 

ttt

 

it pings bad. Come on guys suggestions, too lean, too much timing?

 

if it still pings pull out more

 

well first off a motor should not be knocking

2nd- he forgot $1000 worth of machine work, cost of bearings, gaskets, oil, lifters, cam, lifters, rockers and a load of crap in that $500 statement. an engine build up is more than 3 parts.

3. you shoulnd't hear anything- thats why you have a knock sensor. is it pulling timing as well?

4. price you pay for chitty parts? poor toleracing on pistons/rings and now you have piston slap? rods a bit too long? poor crank tolerances.

 

Sounds like the tune may be off. Send the computer back and tell them what your symptoms are and they can adjust the tune for you.

 

But leaving al the other tables alone, motor runs strong and will lay rubber 100 foot, not bad for less than 500 in parts, huh?

 

I laid 125ft black marks in my stock Z with 275/40/17s on the back.

 

your really irritating me when you say that

you didn't account for your cam kit
you didn't account for everything else you broke when your old motor went and you had to replace
you didn't account for bearings and other stupid stuff like gaskets
you accounted for your crank, rods and pistons.
you didn't account for boring, clearing/notching, balancing, assembly or any other machine work

Your bottom end rebuild cost around $2000 -$2500

my car with full exhust and gears ($1000 legit) would prorobly romp, last longer, and not knock it so its no real economic masterpeice. Wouldn't suprise me if you stretched a rod or something

And many have told you this- many a times. you paid $500 for a crank, rods and pistons- and you overpaid for the crap you got. you did not pay $500 for a 383. If thats the case, my 383 cost me $1300. Explain to my credit card company why they are $4700 short and you have a $500 stroker.

you have a CAT (no not SCAT, but CAT- thats like no frills $.10 soda at pathmark)

Sorry to be so blunt, but its annoying the hell out of me

 

as all the high dollar stuff out there for the street the 129.99 crank is all you need 244.00 I beam rods are actually overkill but I have them, and the Hypertecnic pistons for 184.00 with teflon skirts work just fine, sorry you paid 1300 0r 1700 or whatever, maybe you should shop around next time. My motor runs great and soon as I get a new program with stock timing curve I am sure it will be great, the bottom end is plenty strong.

Eric

 

1. youre 383 wasn't still $500

2. your bottom end is 100% absoultly not as strong as the "high dollar" stuff out there. Strong enough and just as strong as are two VERY different things.

I'm not concerned about spinning to 7000rpms or blasting 275shot of nitrous in there one bit

your personal goals may only call for 350hp at 6200rpms. so its strong enough. But not just as strong as. keep that in mind. strong enough is relative. "strong as" is not.

With all that said, my pain point was a 383 build up is more than 3 parts.

 

thats matters, plus my checkbook has more money in it to add bolt on's etc. The motor is just fine, the parts are just fine, and you my friend are not just fine. If I had to do it over again, I would go with all the parts I did it with, motor runs great.

Eric

 

sorry, didn't mean to come off so harsh

Its just been buggin me that every time you reply i head "$500 383" or something like that when in fact it was at least 4x times that and the quality of parts is less than what is reccomended around here.

 

and how do you know what I have in it???? Maybe I own a machine shop and get it all for free, or a friend has a machine shop and I get it all??? I can say is what I spent which is around 500.00 and I am driving around in a "383" cubic inch lt-1 powered z-28.