Well I got the coolant bleeder valve issue fixed, and I was driving my car. It was running great, then,,,,
I drove the car 3 times yesterday, the first 2 times it was fine. The third, I backed out of my driveway and it ran fine until I got to the stop sign, went to take off from the stop sign and it went into limp home mode. I checked the fluid, level was fine, and it doesn't smell burnt. I was checking for power to the trans, and found out a lot of other issues from the idiot that installed it. Half of the bell housing bolts weren't tightened down. The vss bolt, it wasn't even anywhere close to tight, could've backed off on that one I guess. And my car must be a late 94, because I have another harness of wires going into my trans on the passenger side. So y no sel?? Shouldn't it throw one? How come it works fine when I first start it and back it up, and drive forward, then it goes into limp home. Or is it not in limp home mode @ all? Just had it checked over, it wad fine, and also my tune does not modify my pressures on the tranny, any help would greatly appreciated

 

"Limp" mode is reserved for the PCM losing its program, or losing virtually all the critical inputs. Just enough to get the vehicle off the road, and maybe back home. I don't know anyone who has actually experienced "limp" mode. How did you determine your went into limp mode? What led you to focus on the trans?

Did you scan it? There are codes that don't turn on the SES light.

 

I have not been able to scan it. It may not be a tranny problem, as far as a failure, but the tranny is only giving me 2nd and 3rd gear, no tcc lockup. The strange thing is that it worked just fine and then all of a sudden it's got a problem. What made me think transmission is that this is exactly what happened when the stock transmission let go, there is a catch though. And this is also what makes me thing voltage problem, when I fire up the car and back out of the drive way it has first gear and everything is fine, but as soon as I stop, the idle changes and I lose first gear.so I'm thinking that I have a short, maybe a cooked wire, possibly an o2 or maybe my tps wiring. I think this because 2 of the wires to the tps have a kink that looks like they got impacted and nearly severed. I don't have a scanner, I want to get one or even get the program many of u guys use on your computers, but I've been trying to find out if u can get a cable to plug into the the car that will plug into my usb port. My laptop doesn't have any other type of port. Do they make a cable like that? I haven't been able to find one, so if someone does know, or has an idea of what to do I'd appreciate it. Limp home mode was a poor choice I guess because that is for the pcm, a better choice would be safe mode for the transmission. Because everything is operating correctly except the tranny, so I need to start running continuity checks, and look 4 faulty grounds. Since the idle goes up when this happens, even in neutral, I'm thinking that I need to definitely look @ the tps, o2's. I'm just hoping I don't have to start tearing through the entire harness to find this. I'm thinking I'm going to disconnect the battery for about half an hour and then reconnect it, and see what it does. And if I can't find a short or something, just bring it to chevy and have it scanned.

 

You can get the cable you need:

http://www.akmcables.com/

The PCM controls the transmission. There are codes for transmission components and functions.

You don't need to disconnect the battery for a 1/2 hour to clear the volatile memory in the PCM. Pull the "PCM BAT" fuse (panel at end of dash in a 94) for 30 seconds.

 

Thanx for the addy on the cable, any ideas for good areas to start lookin for possible problems? The things that strike me odd are that it doesn't throw an ses, and that the tranny is fully operational when I first start the car, then it jumps back into safe mode. The fluid doesn't smell burnt, and the big one is that my idle has drastically changed, even in neutral and park.

 

scan the codes first thing, if you dont have the cables to do it yourself yet, you can take it to autozone or something to get them read, i dunno if thatsw an option for you or not, but one way or another you need to find out wat the computer is tellig you

 

Yeah I agree, I called the chevy dealership down here, they had a fire just over a year ago and have since rebuilt, I can't even get a straight answer from them about having the equipment to scan a 94. So I would need to bring it to the beaumont dealership. And that's about 20 or so miles away. And the thing is if it os something internal after all, I could be really messing it up. I've got to do something. I'm currently looking into having a shop send out a person with a scanner that will pull the codes, if not I will arrange for a flatbed to pick it up I guess. But art carr is telling me that I need to really check the wiring. After what I saw when I got under the car, I know that this is going to be a very uphill battle. So much wrong, all of it done by an idiot, I payed to have this poor car screwed up so baddly, it just makes me sick. And there's not a lot u can do about it as I have come to find out. I would love to go to his shop and to take my money and frustration out on him. But we all know where that would lead.