Always use lock tight on the rotor screws

 

SO....I broke down again today heading to the store and decided to do some wiggle/jiggle on a few connectors....if you are looking directly at the front of the Opti, the top left sensor may be my issue. I cranked and cranked and cranked with no luck, I went under the hood and started trial and error.....that sensor once I wiggled it with my screwdriver it cranked up.....after I got it running I went under the hood and wiggled it again and it shut down.....coincidence maybe?

Also, just to add to my joy of the old Camaro.......There is a massive vibration in the drive line now. It was very minimal before I replaced the trans mount, the rubber was gone so when you goosed it the trans hit the bottom of the car. I threw a Prothane mount in there and I'm not much on it as it seems way to solid.....but anyway, there was some clunking going on so I did the front and rear u-joints and now its horrible! I know the u-joints are good, It was really simple heating them up and using my ball joint tool to press them out. There is quite a bit of play at the tailshaft, maybe I'll order that and........I don't know......I wish I had my Duramax back.....everything made sense! LOL! (except the IFS)

 

Do you mean the coolant temp sensor in the water pump housing?

http://shbox.com/1/temp_sensor1.jpg

 

I believe it is the one on the bottom left....Its top left when installed I believe.
I am sure its an internal part of the opti, but manipulating it seems to affect car function.

 

You're referring to the optispark connector as per your last post. The intermittent connection is most probably due to the optispark harness (corroded or spread pin), which plugs into the opti connector and mates with the connector on passenger side of intake manifold.

You can get a new harness at the link below.

Optispark Harness - Non Vented - Hi Temp

 

Maybe I'll do that, I'm leaving work now, took a bit to get it started, hopefully she gets me home. I hope that harness is the problem.
We'll see........I guess first thing is to get the dern tranny bushing fixed so I don't feel like I'm riding on rumble strips.

 

Okay guys, it looks like I'm off Tues, Wed, and Thursday. I picked up a fuel pressure gauge, and I'm going to attempt to troubleshoot everything between that and my multi-meter.

I have a little to add about the car which may or may not be relevant, but I have figured out a pattern so to speak on when the car shuts down. Hot days its a champ all the way to work, but after I leave work (10 hour shift) its like something happened from driving it, maybe moisture in the opti?. It'll get me home, but sometimes will die for up to 30min.

Cold days like today around 40deg it shut down on the way to work about 10 times. I was having a heck of a time, and randomly I mentioned this before, but it will go from a very powerful start to a weak slow start like a dead battery. Then turn key off and try again it'll be back to a fast start......fairly strange.

Lastly.......When the car dies either on the highway, back road, or whatever. It will bottom out on RPM and die....dash says "check gauges", but if I leave it in "D" as I am coasting it will restart back up on its own quite often 3 or 4 times and sometimes keep on trucking, but sometimes it will start on its own and die for good. But the fact that it can die.....and then re-start on its own makes me think electrical, but I figured I would give that info to you guys in case its a common occurrence for a specific problem. I just have a feeling that if it were fuel it would act up all the time and not just a random intermittent issue......I guess we'll see, but let me know if this info gives anyone some insight to a good starting place for me.

I'm going to check pressures, harness connections, I have a new coil and ICM now and the issue is still there so I guess I need to check some ground connections, and since its so cheap I may replace the IAC valve just for the heck of it....being a 94' I might as well replace some common failures even given its low miles.

I'm starting to lean towards the optispark after a lot of internet reading, but I definitely have NO coolant leaks or anything, but it may be original with 130k miles on it so its probably due.

 

These cars are starting to show problems with the ignition switch, located down the steering column, and operated by a rod from the key cylinder. People are reporting intermittent problems due to melted switches and connectors. Might be worth a check:

As usual, reference Shoebox:

4th Gen F-body Ignition Switch Replacement

Guess you've decided against scanning it.

 

I'm getting it scanned on Tuesday, my uncle works for a shop with an OBDI scanner, but I'm still planning on some parts.

 

Well guys, no codes popped up, but I have some more information, my uncle thinks my alternator is going bad?

Basically with the car running the alternator was putting out 13.6v, I just ran it though and it was putting out 14.1v, also, would an intermittent failing alternator be killing my car........I guess possible, but heres the rundown.

New ICM
New Coil
I cleaned up the plug wires just in case to get them away from the manifolds
New ignition switch
new battery
new fuel filter

I guess all thats left is faulty wiring, bad opti, intermittent fuel issue or bad alternator (intermittently bad)

I haven't done the shbox voltage testing on anything yet because at an idle the darn thing runs for ever, and then it'll shut off but I can start it right back up. No matter the situation though you have to crank it for somewhere around 10 revolutions before it starts.....

I have played with tons of wiring and clips just re-seating everything. Maybe i'm looking in the wrong place, I haven't checked my fuel pressure yet because the stoopid gauge I ordered was just that.....a gauge with no line for me to reach under the cowl and connect so I'll have to get one of those.

The car does wreak of gas when it is having its issue though....and i mean wreak like its flooded.........

THIS THING IS KILLING ME. I wish whatever was failing would just fail already so I could diagnose it.