Intake oil leak fix...how long?
Registered User
Joined: Dec 1969
Posts: 27,725
From: Little Rock, AR
Originally posted by craigffb
Cool, thanks guys. I have a manual so I'll check it before I start.
Cool, thanks guys. I have a manual so I'll check it before I start.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 663
From: Clarksville, TN
I've got two more questions.
Do the fuel rails need to come off, or can I leave them on? And should I use Brake cleaner or Carburetor cleaner?
Do the fuel rails need to come off, or can I leave them on? And should I use Brake cleaner or Carburetor cleaner?
Last edited by craigffb; Jul 1, 2003 at 12:08 AM.
Registered User
Joined: Dec 1969
Posts: 234
From: Honolulu, Hawaii
Do the fuel rails need to come off, or can I leave them on?
As for cleaning the surface it doesnt really matter what solvent you use just make sure to wipe down the area before applying the sealant. Put a big **** bead on the back & front of the intake. Let it sit for awhile so it can harden up a bit and then torque the thing down. Its a pretty easy job to do but its time consuming cause after you put everything back together you should let the car sit for 24hrs. After a few days you want to retorque everything to spec to make sure none of the bolts came loose.
Registered User
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 1,519
From: High Orbit
A few tips I've come across that helped:
Keep track of what bolt went where. I used a shoe box flipped over, note one end front or back representative of the intake. Poke holes, put in each bolt roughly where it came out of. Then there'll be no confusion as to what went where when it's time to reinstall the manifold.
Score the lip of the block where the RTV in the back (I did the front too) will go. I used the corner of a file and made some deep X's all the way across it. Especially near the EGR area. Before that I also hit it up with some rough sand paper. Same thing on the manifold. These help give the RTV something to stick to. You'll notice when you remove the intake, these areas are very smooth.
When reinstalling the manifold, you don't want to be sliding it around to line up the holes, you'll wind up shoving RTV off. I broke off a piece of pencil and put that in one of the bolt holes. Drop the manifold in using that as a guide. Just make sure it's long enough to grab after the manifold is down.
If you're not all that familiar with the wires and vacuum lines, you may want to take a few pics first or at least label them.
As mentioned - let that RTV set! It may be tempting to start it up, but you don't want to have to do it all over again.
Good luck
Keep track of what bolt went where. I used a shoe box flipped over, note one end front or back representative of the intake. Poke holes, put in each bolt roughly where it came out of. Then there'll be no confusion as to what went where when it's time to reinstall the manifold.
Score the lip of the block where the RTV in the back (I did the front too) will go. I used the corner of a file and made some deep X's all the way across it. Especially near the EGR area. Before that I also hit it up with some rough sand paper. Same thing on the manifold. These help give the RTV something to stick to. You'll notice when you remove the intake, these areas are very smooth.
When reinstalling the manifold, you don't want to be sliding it around to line up the holes, you'll wind up shoving RTV off. I broke off a piece of pencil and put that in one of the bolt holes. Drop the manifold in using that as a guide. Just make sure it's long enough to grab after the manifold is down.
If you're not all that familiar with the wires and vacuum lines, you may want to take a few pics first or at least label them.
As mentioned - let that RTV set! It may be tempting to start it up, but you don't want to have to do it all over again.
Good luck
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