Just ordered me a shiny new set of long tubes, with the 3" ory. I want to know your story when you installed them. I looked for a few horror stories but couldnt find much. Found one guy saying 12 hrs +...which sounds like a blast. I just want to know some basic problems or trouble points you had during the install. I want to find out as much as possible before I attempt the install in the next few weeks, that way it goes as smoothly as possible.


Thanks.

 

I can honestly say it wasnt bad at all for me....Had the car on jack stands, both went in from the bottom. Just retighten your header bolts after a few head cycles, and do some otvc wires and you will be set

 

what kind of headers did you get?

 

Hooker LT's

 

Steering shaft clearance problems were an issue for me... (MACs). Getting the manifolds off wasnt too hard, just spray the bolts with some PB Blaster the night before and they'll come right out The time consuming parts were mainly grinding the steering shaft a bit (adjusting it didn't get enough clearance), routing wires, getting the exhaust lined up...

Biggest tip - Mechanix gloves! GET THEM.

 

The drivers side I got in pretty easily from the bottom with the exception of removing the steering shaft linkage, coolant temp sensor, and jacking up the car pretty high. The passenger side I got in from the top after removing the starter, alternator, and valve cover.

 

I have jet hots, I did both from the top, but I had a lot of stuff off of the engine. Mine were done while I was in the rebuild process. The drivers side presented the most challenge with the steering column, and I too had to do some grinding. I ended up taking the motor mount off the drivers side and jacking the engine up a little to get it to slide into place. It might have taken me like 2 hours.

 

They are pacesetter LT's. Is it possible to use the wires already? I changed them right after I got the car and there isn't a thing wrong with them. I know the headers get hot, but maybe can route them out of the way?

 

You can use stock wires and routing, you just have to make sure that all wires are secured away from the headers via cable ties.

 

I did this whole process this summer. Its not bad for the most part. Make sure you have auto wire. I think 12,14, 16, 18 and 20 Gauge.You are going to have to extend quite a few wires and reroute them so that they do not burn when your headers are in. There are wires on both fender wells that WILL burn if not moved. The hookers have the slip fit primary so you do not have to mess with the steering linkage. Do some Over the Valve Cover wires and I did the heat shields just for insurance. When you loosen the old manifold bolts don't rush them cause if you break one of those, your project just became alot longer. I used a labeling system for all the wires and stuff that i disconnected. This way if you forget were something goes your not totally lost.

This shouldnt take you too long. It took me almost 20hrs but I went REAL SLOW and took my time. Also you may have to jack up the motor to fit the passenger header in.

Hope that Helps,
~Jim~

 

I did mine with the motor out....and just set the car back on top of them

 

Did anyone else have to cut wiring and make them longer? I am not up to this at all. I know O2 sensors need extensions, but im not about to cut various sensors and make them longer. **** on that

 

I didn't cut or reroute any wires w/ mine (coated Edelbrock TES for single cat cars, I consider them midlengths).

My install was pretty straightforward. Removing the old stuff, I snapped most of the studs/bolts out of the stock y-pipe to exhaust manifold flanges, but that doesn't matter since it's not stuff you reuse. Most of the exhaust manifold bolts were pretty easy on mine, getting a wrench on a couple of them and getting them broken loose wasn't easy but wasn't impossible. Installing the new headers, the passenger side went right in, the steering linkage was in the way to get the driver's side in, so I just took the bolt out of the motor mount on that side and jacked the engine up a inch or so, then all was good (once in there was not clearance issues w/ the linkage). I reused the plug wires and factory routing (though they were fairly new wires from previous owner) and reused the heat shielding and boot covers heat shield things that were factory (at least I assume they're factory) on a couple of them, no problems so far.

I used standard fel-pro header gaskets for LT1 heads and Mr Gasket header bolts. Retighten the bolts a couple times after some heat cycles, and them check them after a longer interval. I just found a couple of mine were loose a couple days ago after I thought they were good (been 6+ months) so I'd go ahead and check that periodically if you're not using locking bolts...

 

You dont have to. The wires in general already have heat shielding where you need it and are out of the way. However it would be a good idea to make sure any and all wires are as far as possible from the headers and anything exposed be shielded.